I'm going through this process myself. I'm certificated in the US, and I've lived in Japan for coming on 10 years...so I'm a little familiar with what goes on, but still working it out. I qualify everything below as my best understanding of what needs to happen. Some or all of it may be completely and wholly wrong.
First, the mandatory google search takes you to
AOPA-Japan. They have a reasonable looking discussion on what's necessary, but lacks some detail. In any case, I've been told that, at a high level, transferring a PPL and an ATP license are easy, everything in between is a major hassle. Since I don't have an ATP I'm working on the former. That said:~
- Get the Radio Operator certificate. I imagine there are Japanese study materials for this, but for foreigners the solution seems to be pay your dues in the form of ~45,000 yen for a 3-day weekend class, and take the test, and they give you the license. The study question pool they gave me at the beginning turned out to be the actual test at the end. The whole course is in Japanese, and if you're like me, your vocabulary doesn't extend to radio communications and law. So it turns out to be a very long weekend, but statistically it seems everybody who pays for the course and sits it out, gets through.
- Take the Civil Aeronautical Law Exam. Get yourself down to your nearest Japan Aircraft Pilot's Association (JAPA) and collect some matierials -- the AIM-J, the Civil Aeronautical Law book, and an application for the Law Exam (the "Gakka-shiken"). You can also collect the AIM-J and other flying materials (sectionals and such) at the Hobun bookstore. I didn't catch where you live at the moment; these stores are both in Shimbashi in the Tokyo area. Also note; if you want to do this exam in English you'll need to call the test givers and ask for an additional form to fill out. I can't make out the name of this place but the phone number is 03-5253-8111. The next English exam is offered sometime in July.
After that my understanding fades out quickly as I haven't gotten there yet. I do have contacts who are guiding me down the path now though, which is better than I had before. I'm pretty sure you'll need a Japanese flight physical, and you'll have to go down to the government office with all these goodies (radio license, law exam, physical results, detailed flight records, and probably more money) to get your ticket.
Compensating controls: I used to head to the states a couple of times a year to get my flying fix; that was usually tied to some new certification ... I am shocked at how far I've been able to make it on accelerated courses, the only way I've been able to proceed. For a very brief while I did some time in Thailand, but it seems like aviation law there has changed and it's quite a bit harder now. Guam has a very good flight school,
Trendvector Aviation. 3.5 hours away and you're not jet lagged when you get there.
Flying IP for the military: the two choices I'm aware of are
Yokota and
Kadena, and they do employ civilians for this. Yokota seems to have a full complement of instructors at the moment so I haven't been lucky getting on there. Kadena is too far away and I haven't taken to harrassing them ... Guam is a cheaper flight.
Once you get your PPL, in the Tokyo area there are opportunities out at Chofu airport to rent planes and fly. The costs of flying in Japan are, how have I best seen this put ... scaldingly high. There also seems to be a limited number of civilian airports you can fly to. Oshima to the south is a popular destination.
Alternatively if you go the commercial route there is sky diving out of Honda Airport up near Okegawa, and there's the glider club farther north. Honda uses a Caravan for skydiving, and if the pictures mean anything to me, I'm guessing it's a Pawnee they use for gliders. I imagine these are difficult roles to get into.
If you care to join me in the pursuit of the upcoming law exam, drop me a PM and we'll figure out how to sync up.