Desktop won't start up

bigred177

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bigred
I have a gateway 5263E desktop that has been sitting for about 4 months. I hooked everything back up and when I push the power button, the power light flashed and the fans turn for about 1/2 second and then it stops. I can hold down the power button and it will continuously do this but won't do anything else.

I have unhooked all of the externals including the monitor, keyboard, and mouse, so there is nothing on the outside to try and run. I have also taken out the wireless network card and external video card and two of the four sticks of RAM. I also tried disconnecting the hard drives and so far nothing has worked. I have also reseated all of the internal connections.

When I plug the power supply in the green light on the motherboard lights up and stays on the whole time.

The last time this computer was hooked up it ran great and now this. I'm at a loss for what to try now.

Thanks
 
Also see if anything changes if you remove the hard drive. Obviously you won't be able to boot, but see if it'll allow you to go into the BIOS. Sounds similar to symptoms when my wife's Seagate went TU. See [thread]33126[/thread]. Actually, hers would go to the BIOS but not beyond, but...
 
I had a desktop with the identical symptoms.

While unplugging the beast for some troubleshooting, I noticed that there were some lights on the back of the computer blinking an error code. Diagnosis: memory problems.

I removed the memory boards one at a time to see if I could isolate the bad board. (yes I was waiting for it to start to sing "Daisey...."). I booted - or tried to - after each card. I found the bad one and on a whim reinstalled the bad one. That fixed the problem. Evidently some corrosion or other crud in the connectors.

I would recommend you try the same. Ditto the CPU if you can remove it.

Wishing you the same quick, inexpensive solution!

-Skip
 
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Also see if anything changes if you remove the hard drive. Obviously you won't be able to boot, but see if it'll allow you to go into the BIOS. Sounds similar to symptoms when my wife's Seagate went TU. See [thread]33126[/thread]. Actually, hers would go to the BIOS but not beyond, but...

I have already tried booting without the hard drives. Same thing happens.


I'll try pulling the other two stick of RAM later and see about pulling the CPU.
 
Well new development.I pulled the CPU and put it back and now when I connect the power to it, it tries to turn on without me pushing the button at all. It will still act the same way, fans turn for about a half second, and then about 2 seconds later it will do it again. It will do this until I turn the power off to it. When I do kill the power, right before the little LED light on the MOBO goes out it will try to turn on 3 times in about a half second and then it dies.

I also tried the booting without RAM and it doesn't change anything.
 
Well new development.I pulled the CPU and put it back and now when I connect the power to it, it tries to turn on without me pushing the button at all. It will still act the same way, fans turn for about a half second, and then about 2 seconds later it will do it again. It will do this until I turn the power off to it. When I do kill the power, right before the little LED light on the MOBO goes out it will try to turn on 3 times in about a half second and then it dies.

I also tried the booting without RAM and it doesn't change anything.

Maybe we're looking into this a little too deeply...have you tried a different power supply?
 
I don't have one handy. This is the only thing I haven't done. But since I'm getting lights on the mobo I would think it's okay. I may have to see if I can find someone to borrow me one.
 
If I' not mistaken the power supply is really two supplies in one. One puts out 5 volts and the other 12 volts. Only part of it may be gone bad which is why it tries to boot but can't.
 
The last time this happened to me it was the power supply. Since you (might) be removing it anyway, try pulling and reseating all internal cables (you already did the CPU). If you can get away with using one memory stick, do it. In any case use the min. number of sticks, all placed in the correct slot(s) according to the manual (if you have on - if not, look it up).

If this doesn't work, borrow (don't buy) a PS unit. It doesn't have to be the same wattage at this point since you're not going to load the CPU much - you're just trying to get it to boot. 300w will be plenty, I think. If it works, great; if not, check back with us.

You can also buy a power supply tester here ... http://www.newegg.com/Store/SubCategory.aspx?SubCategory=133&name=PC-Tools

and in other places.

Good luck ... :)
 
I would suspect the power supply or motherboard.

Absent any sort of testing equipment, the first thing I would do would be look at the fans to see if they're spinning (at least momentarily). Some (a few) motherboards will abort the startup if a fan has failed. I don't know if yours is one of them. If a fan has failed, I would look at whatever component it was cooling as a possible cause for the problem.

If the fans check out okay, I would look closely at the mobo for blown caps (capacitors). There will likely be two types: ceramic capacitors that look like little disks that are slightly convex on both surfaces, and electrolytic capacitors that look like little cans and usually are mounted upright. Some may be in difficult-to-inspect areas, such as under an overhanging processor cooler.

If any of the ceramic caps are bulging or distorted (bearing in mind that they're slightly convex to begin with), or if the electrolytic caps are leaking or are bulging at the top (they should be flat), then they are blown.

Yes, it's crude and subjective and requires a good eye, especially in the case of the ceramics. It's easier to tell on the electrolytics. But long story short, if you have blown caps, then the motherboard is the problem. The specific problem could be the blown cap(s), or it could be something else on the mobo that cause the cap(s) to blow. Your options then are (1) to find someone who can diagnose the mobo and replace the caps if they're the problem, (2) replace the mobo, or (3) replace the computer.

Note that there are other motherboard-related problems that can occur and which have nothing to do with blown caps. But these would require testing equipment and diagnostics specific to that mobo.

Once the purely visual inspections above are done, you can try re-seating everything, baasically because it's easy and free. (Make sure the machine is unplugged while doing so). It's not unusual for components to creep out of their slots / plugs. But frankly, I don't think this is your issue because when a component that's tested during POST fails or is not detected, it usually triggers an alarm. Remember to observe anti-static procedures when working on internal computer components. (At the very least, grasp or rest a bare forearm on a metal part of the chassis or case.)

The next thing, assuming you don't have a spare power supply, a voltmeter, or a power supply tester available, would be to pull the CMOS battery out with the power unplugged, leave it like that for a few seconds, replace it, and try to boot up. Sometimes (rarely) something gets screwy in the CMOS settings and it needs to be cleared out. But frankly, it's a long shot. Note that doing this will default all or some of the CMOS settings (and most certainly will reset the clock), which will need to be addressed in BIOS setup once the machine is bootable.

The next thing to check is the power supply, which likely is the problem. You can do this with a power supply tester (preferably), with a voltmeter, or by substituting a known-good power supply. Remember that a power supply should NEVER be plugged in unless there's a load on it (either the motherboard or a dummy load / tester).

If you have a old-fashioned, needle-type voltmeter, set it for DC volts, attach the ground to ground and the hot to the 12V hole in a spare HD plug, with the power supply connected to the mobo. Then try to fire up the machine. If it doesn't read ~12V on the 12V lead, then the power supply is shot.

If it initially reads ~12V, but then drops off more than slightly, then the power supply is shot.

If it bounces around all over the place, or if it reads anything less than ~10V or more than ~14V, then the power supply, and quite possibly the motherboard, are both shot.

If it tests okay, then do the same tests on the 5V side.

If it still tests okay, the power supply may still be shot. But the above is a quick check using a common tool that you may have laying around the garage somewhere. Using a good power supply tester is more accurate.

The above suggestions aren't comprehensive, but they're a place to start assuming you don't have a lot of diagnostic equipment sitting around your shop.

-Rich
 
Thanks for the great post. All of the fans turn at least momentarily.

Looks like it is the power supply. I borrowed one from a friend and while I only partially hooked it up, I at least got all of the fans to turn continuously. I didn't try to fully boot up since I don't have any RAM or anything in it right now.

Looks like I get to do some online shopping for a new power supply. Suggestions?
 
The power button is not doing anything though. When I flip the switch in the back the machine powers on. When I push and hold the power button, nothing happens. I even unplugged it and the machine still powered on. I did take the CMOS battery out and put it back in if that changes anything for the power button.
 
Thanks for the great post. All of the fans turn at least momentarily.

Looks like it is the power supply. I borrowed one from a friend and while I only partially hooked it up, I at least got all of the fans to turn continuously. I didn't try to fully boot up since I don't have any RAM or anything in it right now.

Looks like I get to do some online shopping for a new power supply. Suggestions?

You should never skimp out on a powersupply, a quality unit is well worth its price. A less than stellar unit is far more likely to overvolt and destroy your components in one fell swoop.

Antec is a great name, and this is a fantastic price. If I were in your situation, this would be the one I'd get.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371003

Good luck!
 
Thank you

I do have a separate graphics card that has a power input and play the occasional demanding game on it and have two hard drives, if that makes any difference on which power supply I get. If the one above will get the job done I will go with that one. Just making sure.
 
Thank you

I do have a separate graphics card that has a power input and play the occasional demanding game on it and have two hard drives, if that makes any difference on which power supply I get. If the one above will get the job done I will go with that one. Just making sure.

What kind of videocard are you going to be using?
 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817822008

How does this one look? Newegg estimates my system requirements at 420W, this one is 500W max. It also has a single PCI-E power cable for the video card. I doubt I'll attempt to run a second one. Reviews seem good and it's a good price.

I've never heard of Diablotek, and there seem to be quite a few DOA units in the reviews...I would steer clear.

This one has a PCI-E connector and a bit more juice, and 3 SATA connectors.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371023
 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817822008

How does this one look? Newegg estimates my system requirements at 420W, this one is 500W max. It also has a single PCI-E power cable for the video card. I doubt I'll attempt to run a second one. Reviews seem good and it's a good price.

Never heard of the company. That doesn't mean they're bad, just that I never heard of them.

I usually stick to Antec or CoolerMaster myself. I don't recall ever having had one of them fail, off the top of my head. There are other good companies; I just happen to like those two.

Make sure the power supply in the machine is a "standard" one, which usually only means that the housing is the right size and has the mounting holes in the right places. Some manufacturers use non-standard mounting brackets or holes to try to force you to buy an overpriced replacement from them. I'm not familiar with that model, though.

-Rich
 
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