Aircraft Block Heaters

murphey said:
Curious, why not? And I didn't do the install, the shop did.
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The ziptie can mar the tube such that the tube must be replaced when the engine mount is repaired by a certified shop.
 
Hmmmm never heard a lot about zip ties on engine mounts. I must have 20 of them, some very old and a few new.
 
Clark1961 said:
I've told B & R and it doesn't do any good at all...
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Suggestions where else to attach the cord and I'll do it myself when I have time and it warms up. I've got a bunch of those clips with rubber (can't remember the name) for the engine mount.
 
murphey said:
Suggestions where else to attach the cord and I'll do it myself when I have time and it warms up. I've got a bunch of those clips with rubber (can't remember the name) for the engine mount.
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Adel clamps are fine on the engine mount. Even a rubber/synthetic sleeve under the ziptie should prevent damage as long as the sleeve material will handle any temperature exposure.
 
Clark1961 said:
Adel clamps are fine on the engine mount. Even a rubber/synthetic sleeve under the ziptie should prevent damage as long as the sleeve material will handle any temperature exposure.
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Time for the tube of RTV....I know it's someplace in the hangar...or I may have the correct size Adel clamp, too.
 
zip-tie + grit + vibration = diamond wire saw
 
For an installed one - and installed is the way to go if you live in an area that is regularly below freezing in the winter - Your two main choices are Tanis and Reiff.

The main difference between those two is how they heat the cylinders. Tanis uses the CHT ports, necessitating more expensive combo heater/CHT probes. Reiff uses a band around the cylinder. Reiff is also less expensive.

With those factors, I went for the full Reiff standard system on the Mooney (TCM IO-550-G). Sump heater plus cylinder bands. Plug is installed under the oil door. I have a set of cowl plugs and I put a blanket over the top of the cowl when it's in the hangar. It's nice and toasty in there when I pre-flight (good for warming my hands up!), and the blanket goes in the cabin when I fly, pre-warmed by the heater. I've been very happy with it.

I definitely recommend that people check out Ted's thread too.
 
tmyers said:
I have never seen a PA28 with the plug fastened anywhere else but the filler tube. There is no place else to access it but the oil door and not enough room to reach inside the oil door opening.

Thought about this when tightening the cylinder bands on the Arrow today.
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My PA28-180 has a Tanis system installed. The plug is permanently mounted on the side of the fuselage just aft of the firewall. The lines Y inside the cabin, with one leg penetrating the firewall to feed the engine heater, and the other leg terminating in a female 120V socket under the copilot seat so you can plug in a space heater for the instruments.
 
Just like the plug on the snow blower. Does it have a water tight cover?
 
tmyers said:
Kent, did you get the oil cooler heat pad?
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No. Sump and cylinders. That, plus the cowl plugs and the blanket, makes everything in the cowl at least 80 degrees even in cold weather, so the oil in the cooler should be plenty thin.

That said, I do leave mine plugged in all the time when it's below freezing - I usually don't decide to go flying 8 hours in advance, so I want to be able to head to the airport and go on a whim.

I open the oil filler as soon as I get out of the plane to vent gases and moisture, and I leave it open so that it can keep drying out with the heater on - The blanket I use is fairly porous and the cord to the heater keeps the door on top of the cowl open a crack, so it stays warm while letting moisture escape.

Hopefully this strategy is fully Ted-compliant and approved! ;)
 
Jim_R said:
My PA28-180 has a Tanis system installed. The plug is permanently mounted on the side of the fuselage just aft of the firewall.
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Is it recessed and under a cover? Recessed with no cover? plug blades sticking into the slipstream? I'm having trouble visualizing this, but it sounds nice.

Between the engine heater, cabin space heater, and dual battery minders (plane has 2 batteries), I'm certainly not gonna make Al Gore happy! :D
 
tmyers said:
Hmmmm never heard a lot about zip ties on engine mounts. I must have 20 of them, some very old and a few new.
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Cut em off asap. Hopefully you dont have notches cut into the steel already. If you dont, you will.
 
There has been some discussion of the warmth causing condensation which can lead to corrosion if the heaters are left on for a prolonged time. Also, they do draw some current and can impact your electrical bill.

I have two Tanis systems on my Baron, but since it's in a heated hangar rarely use them. If going on a XC and know the plane will be outside for some time, I bring some long extension cords along.

Not sure I'd want to leave them on and plugged in for prolonged periods of time.
 
AcroBoy said:
There has been some discussion of the warmth causing condensation which can lead to corrosion if the heaters are left on for a prolonged time.
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Warmth doesn't cause condensation - It causes evaporation. If the bottom end is warm and the top end is cold, yes you may have some condensation. However, if you're heating the cylinders and keeping the heat contained within the engine compartment, there shouldn't be anything below the dew point, which is really low in the dry winter air.

An oil-pan-only heater, you probably don't want to leave on all the time. If you've got the cylinders heated as well, you're good.

That's why I leave the heater (bottom end & cylinders) plugged in and the oil dipstick open, so that there aren't any cold surfaces inside the engine *and* the vapor has somewhere to go.

That, and regular flying, keeps things in good shape.
 
I have always heard it is the on and off cycle that creates the excess moisture. The heater manufacturers and most mechanics suggest just leaving it on. YMMV
 
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