2006 CTsw for sale - will go fast.

CT4ME

CT4ME

Cleared for Takeoff
Joined
Oct 24, 2011
Messages
1,321
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Display Name
Display name:
CT4ME
***edit*** - SOLD!
2006 CT with only 83hours, loaded. Asking $79K. Fresh annual, hose change, firewall, 'chute pack. Dynon Glass, autopilot, Garmin 396. No damage, always hangared. :lol:Includes deadly design defect of requiring fuel to fly.:yes:
More info
 
Last edited:
Yup, seven years since it rolled off the production line. Was owned by an older Gent who flew it infrequently. All SBs and maintenance was caught up so it could be donated to the War Eagles Museum (to be sold). Like new.
 
CT4ME said:
Yup, seven years since it rolled off the production line. Was owned by an older Gent who flew it infrequently. All SBs and maintenance was caught up so it could be donated to the War Eagles Museum (to be sold). Like new.
Click to expand...

I know if a mid 1970s Cessna 172 with less hours. Owner bought it to put in a display case.... Thought we had something like that on our hands. Sounds like a good buy, that much non use on such a new airframe caught my eye. I bet it goes fast.
 
How do those engines hold up without flying? If it was a Lycoming there would probably be corrosion and reduced life expectancy if it wasn't pickled in between long lulls in activity.
 
flyingriki said:
How do those engines hold up without flying? If it was a Lycoming there would probably be corrosion and reduced life expectancy if it wasn't pickled in between long lulls in activity.
Click to expand...

Wrong-o.

My engine was overhauled some 30-odd years ago. Has about 1000 hours on it since, most of that early on since the OH. We had it open last year at annual. Zero corrosion, zero pitting, nada.
 
timwinters said:
Gross over-generalization.

Did it sit in Tampa or Tempe? Huge difference.
Click to expand...
The Rotax 912 does not have a crankcase vent - any diffusion would have to be past the rings, through a valve and manifolds. I would expect the moisture level in the crankcase to be high no matter what. Not flying it would let some moisture out eventually, but it would take a long time to really dry out and then the first time you fly it you are back to square one.

Tampa or Tempe may make a little difference for the upper part of the cylinders, but no difference down in the crankcase.

http://www.rotax-aircraft-engines.com/portaldata/5/dokus/d00930.pdf
 
Last edited:
Capt. Geoffrey Thorpe said:
The Rotax 912 does not have a crankcase vent - any diffusion would have to be past the rings, through a valve and manifolds. I would expect the moisture level in the crankcase to be high no matter what. Not flying it would let some moisture out eventually, but it would take a long time to really dry out and then the first time you fly it you are back to square one.

Tampa or Tempe may make a little difference for the upper part of the cylinders, but no difference down in the crankcase.

http://www.rotax-aircraft-engines.com/portaldata/5/dokus/d00930.pdf
Click to expand...

So, it seems, not only does it not matter where it sits, it doesn't matter that it does sit. In fact, an engine that sits is probably healthier than an engine that runs regularly (from a moisture in the crankcase standpoint)?

BTW...my response to flyingriki was in reference to Lyconentials, not Rotaxes (Rotaxii?).
 
timwinters said:
So, it seems, not only does it not matter where it sits, it doesn't matter that it does sit. In fact, an engine that sits is probably healthier than an engine that runs regularly (from a moisture in the crankcase standpoint)?
Click to expand...

Interesting logic but totally contrary to common thought in the engine world and all the documentation put out by Lycoming and Continental.

And just to take a 'peek' at the inside during an annual doesn't tell the story. The corrosion and pitting can be on gears in the accessory case and inside the crank. Just spent a bunch of money replacing and overhauling parts that "looked" great.....

Engines that sit won't live as long as those flown regularly with proper oil change. Since everyone has their own 'etched in stone in their mind' theory on this I'll pass on joining the argument and follow the experts. See quotes below:

**We have our own ideas on what makes a so-called bulletproof engine and to test our theories, we called four of our favorite field overhaul shops to compare notes. The view from inside the engine shop is often quite different from owner (or our) perceptions because they see an unending torrent of broken and corroded engines, many done in before their time.

**The largest factor in engine wear, however, may be reduced flight hours. Because of fuel prices and other regulatory and economic factors, airplanes sit a lot more than they used to. It's not uncommon to see airplanes in annual with fewer than 20 hours flown in the previous year. Depending on climate and owner care, this leads to what has become an epidemic in piston GA: engine corrosion, but especially pitting and spalling of cams and lifters.

**Another important oil-related issue is preventing corrosion (rust) when an engine is dormant for a period of weeks or months -- something that seldom happens to "working airplanes" (charter, rental, flight school, flying club, etc.), but is unfortunately common among owner-flown airplanes. Rust is the #1 reason that engines fail to make manufacturer's recommended TBO, so preventing it is extremely important.
 
flyingriki said:
Interesting logic but totally contrary to common thought in the engine world and all the documentation put out by Lycoming and Continental.
Click to expand...
The lubrication system on the Rotax 912 is quite different from Lycomings and Continentals. Not all Lycoming / Continental advice applies to Rotax engines.
 
Capt. Geoffrey Thorpe said:
The lubrication system on the Rotax 912 is quite different from Lycomings and Continentals. Not all Lycoming / Continental advice applies to Rotax engines.
Click to expand...

Yeah he just wasted a whole lot of time arguing a point that was never made. I was referring specifically to Rotax engines with my commentary and in no way implied that it applied to lyconentials.
 
Me? Never! :)

I just don't like my words being taken out of context. I made a comment about Lyconentals and someone counters with a Rotax argument, then I comment on the Rotax statement and someone counters with a Lyconental argument. Both were responding directly to me and quoted me.

I oft wonder if people actually read posts before responding. Certain people don't I know...

You know what "they" say, common sense ain't so common.
 
PS... The plane has been hangared in the arid southwest. As per Rotax maintenance, all rubber items have been replaced, including carb gaskets. The plane has about 4 hours on it since the extensive annual/maintenance.
 
EdFred said:
Wrong-o.

My engine was overhauled some 30-odd years ago. Has about 1000 hours on it since, most of that early on since the OH. We had it open last year at annual. Zero corrosion, zero pitting, nada.
Click to expand...

What parts of the engine were opened at annual?:dunno:
 
EdFred said:
Wrong-o.

My engine was overhauled some 30-odd years ago. Has about 1000 hours on it since, most of that early on since the OH. We had it open last year at annual. Zero corrosion, zero pitting, nada.
Click to expand...
Not a Lycosaurus, but a few years ago I took apart an aluminum, air cooled engine that had sat outside a garage in Kansas for roughly 35 years (from around 1967 or '68 until 2003), never turned over, never run, and had not been preserved in any way. In fact there was still 1960s vintage gas in the tank, which had turned to a dark brown varnish.

All of the seals were completely shot, of course, and the rings were seized in the bore. The outside of the engine was a complete mess. However... the inside of the engine and gearbox was absolutely pristine, not a speck of corrosion anywhere. I had the cylinder honed, replaced the seals, gaskets and rings and it fired right up.

So... I guess it all depends on a lot of factors.
 
Last year I bought a 2007 CTSW with 100hrs on it. The owner flew it about 70-80hrs then parked it in a hangar in Nebraska, the rest of the hours were from being started and run every couple of weeks.

I have done two oil changes so far (now at 178hrs), the magnetic plug shows no metal, and the engine runs great. I get better than book speeds...temps, oil pressure, etc are perfect. All things equal I'd rather have an engine exercised, but it seems 6-7 years of minimal running isn't the end of the world for a 912 either.
 
Capt. Geoffrey Thorpe said:
The lubrication system on the Rotax 912 is quite different from Lycomings and Continentals. Not all Lycoming / Continental advice applies to Rotax engines.
Click to expand...

Is the oil chemistry any different? Are the insides made of different materials?
:confused:
 
Goofy said:
Is the oil chemistry any different? Are the insides made of different materials?
:confused:
Click to expand...

Aviation oil is not used in Rotax aircraft engines. Rotax recommends motorcycle oil be used. Review the referenced pdf to see oil system design. Seek counseling to reduce your confusion.
 
Goofy said:
Is the oil chemistry any different? Are the insides made of different materials?
:confused:
Click to expand...
The system for getting oil back to the tank relies on blowby to pressurize the crankcase so it does not have a crankcase breather like purd near every other engine. This eliminates the possibility of getting fresh air into the crankcase which could reduce the moisture level.

There are oil differences as well.
 
Clark1961 said:
Aviation oil is not used in Rotax aircraft engines. Rotax recommends motorcycle oil be used. Review the referenced pdf to see oil system design. Seek counseling to reduce your confusion.
Click to expand...

I and many other owners use Aeroshell Sport Plus 4, which is one of the oils Rotax recommends. It's a semi-synthetic oil very similar to high-performance motorcycle engine oil.

If you run mogas exclusively you can use a full synthetic, but if you run *any* avgas at all you need use a semi-synthetic to help suspend the lead and keep it from depositing on the valves and gearbox. Since you never know when you might get caught away from home and need to use some 100LL, most folks just run the semi-synthetics.
 
bullwinkle said:
I and many other owners use Aeroshell Sport Plus 4, which is one of the oils Rotax recommends. It's a semi-synthetic oil very similar to high-performance motorcycle engine oil.

If you run mogas exclusively you can use a full synthetic, but if you run *any* avgas at all you need use a semi-synthetic to help suspend the lead and keep it from depositing on the valves and gearbox. Since you never know when you might get caught away from home and need to use some 100LL, most folks just run the semi-synthetics.
Click to expand...
And, since it only takes about 2 1/2 quarts per oil change and you don't usually have to add much (if any) between changes, that case of Sport Plus 4 lasts a l...o...n...g time.
 
bullwinkle said:
I and many other owners use Aeroshell Sport Plus 4, which is one of the oils Rotax recommends. It's a semi-synthetic oil very similar to high-performance motorcycle engine oil.

If you run mogas exclusively you can use a full synthetic, but if you run *any* avgas at all you need use a semi-synthetic to help suspend the lead and keep it from depositing on the valves and gearbox. Since you never know when you might get caught away from home and need to use some 100LL, most folks just run the semi-synthetics.
Click to expand...

Looks like Sport Plus 4 was new to the market when I was flying behind a Rotax. The owners all specified and supplied motorcycle oil.

From Shell's literature:

Take Note




DO NOT use AeroShell Oil Sport Plus 4 in engines that are designed to use Ashless Dispersant aviation piston engine oils such as AeroShell W Oils. This includes aircooled Teledyne Continental Motors, Textron Lycoming and Jabiru engines.


So yes, the chemistry is different than traditional aviation piston engine oil.
 
Capt. Geoffrey Thorpe said:
And, since it only takes about 2 1/2 quarts per oil change and you don't usually have to add much (if any) between changes, that case of Sport Plus 4 lasts a l...o...n...g time.
Click to expand...

My last oil change I drained and filled 3 liters, and then never had to add a drop in 50 hours. Right after the change the oil level was at the top of the range, by the time of the next change it was still 80-85% toward the top of the range.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top