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I recently flew my 67 Cherokee w/ 160hp engine from KWST (Westerly RI) to KPGD (Punta Gorda FL). I kept the power between 2350 - 2400 as it was a little bouncy. That and the headwind over Block Island sound and Long Island yielded only 90mph over the ground. The next leg was between MD and SC...

I know this thread is old but wanted to know if this ever happened? I just sold my Cherokee and looking to fly with some partners. Thanks!

Can I claim plausible deniability?!?

Good idea! Thanks for the tip!

You’re absolutely right. Now I’m going to watch those gauges close and and see if the dump out again.

Fuel gauges not working...oil temp not working... cost to remove and replace sending units for all 3 is north of $2000. Then I read the maintenance manual which recommended checking the $2 Auto Zone fuse!! Dodged a bullet!

Cheap insurance!!

Let me confirm without equivocation that they are a total scam. It’s taken me almost a week to get them to look at my plane and they still asked to look at logs. The plane I wanted to buy from them has been sold in the meantime. Avoid them!

Well, to add to this. I’ve been trying for 3 days to buy a Mooney M20C he has listed on TAP. It’s not on his site so this isnt looking too good.

That’s what I was thinking…use a 1x4 with 4 holes drilled in it, put the bolt/screw through the hole, tighten with a nut, washer, butt connector, washer, then tighten with another nut to make it secure. Then it’s a matter of connecting the alligator clamp to the opposite end. Use different...

Dan Thomas…can I drill holes in a board and use butt end connectors to connect the wires to the screws rather than solder? Just make sure the connector is metal to metal or will the board cause a problem? I like idea of being able to sit in the seat with the needle dancing and being able to...

Unfortunately in the least accessible part on the plane…under the pilots side panel, against the firewall. You really need to remove the front seats to access it and work on it.

Good afternoon, I just completed a VERY long cross country in my Cherokee 140 and had some serious issues with my charging system. On Leg 1, the ammeter suddenly went to zero. After months of it dancing back and forth, I thought the spring had finally given up and the gauge had died. After...

Got the quotes back…they run between $17 and $23k. They run the gamut of a 275/355combo to a G5/dual G5 and 355/345 combo. Not sure what I’m going to do now.

I shudder to think what all that cost…

I did not know that. Question is, how funky would my panel look with just the two 275’s?! Lol!! Would look pretty bare!

I’m hoping it’s not that high. Waiting on a quote from the shop. The 375 will give me GPS and ADSB Out so that’s a double bonus. Hoping the loss of the vacuum system and AI and DG will bet me a few pounds of gross as well.

No mistake at all my friend! I am tight on panel space but also tight on budget. With (2) G5's I can remove the vacuum system and the AI and DG. You're saying that with (2) 275's I can remove the entire 6 pack and go pretty much completely glass? With a 375 install?

Why wouldn't I use (2) G5's instead? They're slightly cheaper than the the GI 275 (about $1k each cheaper actually). (2) G5's and a 375 installation, IMHO, would be in the @25k range, which puts me over budget again.

Since I already have two comms (KX155 and the KLX135 and one VOR/LOC indicator) I was hoping to get away with just a 375 and a second indicator. I wanted to simply move my tachometer down into an empty hole in the panel (to the right of the stack) and then add a 209 (or similar) indicator in...