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Update...So, I made it over to the plane today and removed the light to determine what bulb type and why it was so dim. After removal I found that it had the correct lamp inside: 12V Part # 330. Interestingly, after I put the lamp back in and tested to make sure it was working - the light was...

I am learning that it is difficult for me to communicate via chat board versus sitting down and having a regular old conversation. My A&P charges $100 per hour. When you want to do something like add a stall warning horn - my previous experience with working with him is that he will go to...

Agreed. My A&P is a great guy, happy to help, however, he is by the book. If I go to him generally asking that I want a stall warning horn added in, it WILL BE 1000's of dollars and then that is that. However, I have learned after working with this guy, that if I come to him with a peer...

100% agree with everything you said, thank you. When I posted the image of the "blue" multi-stack terminal - I wasn't referring to the gauge (however, you are absolutely correct with your comments) - I am trying to determine a wiring plan that most folks agree with for making this connection...

Excellent! I appreciate all the wisdom and experience on here - it's incredible. Thank you so much. Ok, so no wire taps. Here is what my light socket looks like (see attached photo) - it has two tabs +/- with what I assume is either a push on connector or individual female spade connectors...

Not sure you will see my last line because it is buried next to the photo of the t-tap. So, I thought I would include it again, just in case: "This uses a male spade connector - so arguably this is not permeant. Thoughts on this approach?"

Great info, thank you. Unfortunately, I am not following your suggestion exactly. Are you thinking something like this? My thought was to tap into each the hot wire and the ground (at the light) with one of these: This uses a male spade connector - so arguably this is not permeant...

Ok, For those that are interested in following along...I purchased the Mallory SC616NLR. It is a DC, maximum 16V, draws only 22mA, is 95 dba at 16V - so I assume it will be slightly less at 14V. It's a constant tone (no pulse or siren) at 2900 +/- 500 Hz...This is perfect! I plan on wiring...

Thank you kshaw, that website was great. It allowed me to see and here the different buzzers. Personally, I like the 2000 HZ freq the best. I found that most stall warning buzzers run at around 90 dba and anywhere between 2000-3000 hertz. I did find on Amazon a red flashing LED indicator...

Great idea - start with the easy solution! I was chatting with some guys here and we struggled to find the bulb type or number. We are thinking it might be 328 or 330 peanut bulb style. I will pull it out and try to match it up.

Hello all. I realize this is an old thread - but thought what the heck. I have a 75 Arrow with only a dim stall warning light. The light is really hard to see during stall practice. Has anyone upgraded their light to a brighter one? I was thinking maybe I could swap it out with an LED...