[NA] Help me identify this yard control valve

TangoWhiskey

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3Green
I am trying to identify the following valve in my yard. I'll explain where it is and show pictures, then get on to the reason I want to know what it is.

From our house, going out to the street, it's YARD - SIDEWALK - STRIP OF GRASS - CURB/STREET. In the "STRIP OF GRASS", at the CURB/STREET side, there is a concrete box with a steel lid on it. Inside that box is a round-dial water meter; I see the city come and read it for water readings.

Between that box and the SIDEWALK, there is another box, a plastic one with a green lid marked CONTROL VALVE with a company name of AMETEK from Sheyboygan, WI. This box is directly next to the water meter box, and sits between my house and the water meter.

However, I'm not sure it's control valves for water. It might be. Can you tell by looking at the pictures?

I don't know where my main water shutoff valve is to the house; I don't think it's these, as these run parallel to the sidewalk, not "to my house". The two yellow shutoff valves on either side of that green contraption in the middle are marked "Apollo"; however, as you can see they are so rusted I can't move them--they need to be replaced, but I need to know what I'm dealing with first, and if it's a utility company's issue or mine.

There is a white PVC flex pipe below it, running parallel to the main pipe, which also seems to be PVC going out of the box, with metal fittings to connect this green thing. The large nut on top appears to be some sort of cleanout fitting, but I can't tell what purpose the four little protuberances (towards the street side) serve, and I don't see anything below this valve (i.e., coming up from underneath or tee-ing off from it.)

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Now, as to why I'm looking at this thing! I have several sprinkler system valves that aren't closing all the way, that need to be rebuilt or replaced (getting head drainage from the last head in the zone, even when the system is off for days at a time--and if I cap that low valve, the drainage problem moves to the next head in the zone). I'm trying to locate all of the valves, but I have a non-traditional (installed 89 or so) system--i.e., there isn't a master valve manifold anywhere alongside the house, or a master water shutoff valve, at least that I've been able to find.

I'm wondering if this valve might be it? I do have sprinkler heads in the sidewalk strip of grass...

I'm trying to use this device, which a pilot friend of mine had great success with to find his buried/hidden valves, but you really do need to have the water supply turned OFF before using it, else you can't hear the valves buzz over all the water noise.

http://www.reedsirrigation.com/buzzbee.htm
 

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FYI, after posting these pictures, I noticed that imprint on the green valve and went out to see if I could read it; it says "CONBRACO DCV" on the top part of the valve, and the portion that goes down off the bottom says "140° FMAX" and some other writing I can't see.

Googling CONBRACO, I think it is related to water, and might be a DCV="double check valve"... Is that a backflow prevention valve?

http://www.plumbingspecialties.com/BACKFLOW/CO4.htm

http://cgi.ebay.com/Conbraco-DC-bac...26?IMSfp=TL090626187005r7917#ebayphotohosting
 
The backflow prevention valve should be on the sprinkler system to protect the house and the utility water supply.

The inline valves on either side of the check valve should isolate the sprinkler system. They are quarter turn valves. The little valves on the side of the check and the isolation valve are for testing the backflow preventer. They can also be used to drain the sprinkler system (or blow it out) and to test that the sprinkler system is isolated from the supply.
 
So closing both (or one?) of them should cut off the water to the sprinkler system itself?

Yup. Either or both should isolate the sprinkler system.

Just for grins and to make sure your house has a chance of being protected by the backflow preventer, close the isolation valves and then make sure water still runs in the house. With leaking valves in the sprinkler system that backflow preventer is just a little more important than in a system with valves that don't leak.
 
I'll see if I can get the valves to turn--they seem pretty rusted, and I'm worried about breaking off the stems or making a bad problem worse.

I have an email with pictures into Apollo to find out how I can order replacement ball valves, then I'll have an Irrigation guy come out and replace them and test that DCV.
 
The ball valves are probably ok. The handle and nut are cheap, easily corroded steel but the stem and body are better material. Those ball valves should last better than 30 years unless there is an unusually corrosive environment. I've used Apollo valves in many applications and have no complaints other than the factory typically leaves the stem seal nut loose.

Anyway, just use your hand to turn the valve and there shouldn't be a problem. Unless your nickname is "Gorilla" or something similar.:smile: There should be no need to put a wrench on the valve-handle or stem at all. Ball valves are ususally pretty reliable since the seals are so simple.

Let me know how it goes.
 
Thanks; closing the one on the right, with the channel locks and liberal WD-40, worked to turn off the water to the sprinkler system without losing water in the house! I think it's just the handles and top nut that are rusted, not the internal ball valve.
 
Good the hear it worked out.
 
Have located three of six valves; one buzzed VERY loudly and I could hear it 20 feet away, even though the cover and vault box were completely covered by St. Augustine grass. There was another valve in the same box--could barely hear it even when the cover was off! Other zones run but can't hear the valves (with the water off and using a 5' section of PVC as a "listener pipe", ala the Indian train track method). I'll try again after dark when people's lawn mowers aren't running and the Cicada's have quieted down.
 
Troy I know exactly what that is. Its the main control valve for the TransCon Natural Gas Line supplying the eastern half of the US:rolleyes:
 
I feel compelled to share with you all an example of OUTSTANDING customer service from an American company!! As I showed above, I found "CONBRACO" stamped on the housing of the valve, and "Apollo" on the rusted yellow handles. A web search took me to Apollo's website, who still manufactures and sells these valves. I put the same pictures I shared here, and put them in a Picasa web album, and filled out the Sales Support inquiry/form on Apollo's web page, asking if they could provide any info on the unit and how I could obtain new valves to replace the rusted ones.

Here is the reply I received this morning:

Troy:

This is our 40-300 Series Double Check Valve and is probably 15 years old.

This was obviously produced some time before we standardized on stainless steel handles for our ball valves. The plated nut and the handles are badly rusted but the stem that turns the ball is made of brass and is probably still in good shape under all of that rust. If you are able to clear enough rust to put a socket on the nut, you should be able to remove the nut because the steel and brass will not bond together. A squirt of Liquid Wrench(R) (and letting it set for while) would help loosening the rust as well. As a worst case scenario, you might have to use a nut splitter, but like I said, the steel on brass should allow removal.

I would guess this is a 3/4" or 1" unit and is probably being used for the irrigation system.

If you will give me an address, I will send you two stainless steel handles and stainless steel nuts for both the 3/4" and the 1" sizes. From the installation pictures, taking the ball valves off of the unit would involve a lot of work and is probably not necessary.

Give me a call if you have any questions.

John Stebbins
Technical Service & Support Manager
Tel: 704-841-6137
Fax: 704-841-6021
e-mail: john.stebbins@conbraco.com
 
I sent John a link to this thread.

On Mon, 29 Jun 2009 11:42:29 -0400, "John Stebbins" <john.stebbins@CONBRACO.com> wrote:
> Thanks for the posting. The handles and nuts should go today by UPS.
> Let me know if you have any problems putting on the new handles. By the
> way, did I mention our backflow products are made in the USA?
>

Just keeps getting better. ;)
 
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