Who is ready for the $100 oil change?

I call it my Ford Harley to my bike friends. To the guys I play airplanes with, I tell them it's as close to owning a Pratt and Whitney motor as I'll get for a while......:p

If you see a 7.3L/Harley/P&W that doesn't leak oil, that means it's out of oil, eh? haha.
 
I don't get the 5 qt jug thing. Every vehicle I have is 6qt change with filter. Who changes oil and doesn't change the filter?

So buy the jug and another quart. :dunno:

I use Mobil 1 synthetic in my truck. The 5 qt jug is $27.47. A single quart is $7.97 as opposed to $5.49 per quart in the jug.

Jug plus 1 quart = $35.44
6 quarts = $47.82

But I get your point which is, "Why don't they just sell a 6 quart jug?" and I don't have an answer for ya.
 
I just buy jugs and save what isnt used for thr next change. Its not like its going to go bad or something.
 
I have been doing $100+ oil changes for many years. I maintain a small fleet of work trucks that hold 32 qts.

My freightliner RV holds 44 qts in it's Cat C-12 diesel. It's a major ordeal just to have enough containers to haul away the old oil. I don't even want to think about what it is going to cost today.

BTW in 35 years of changing oil I have never changed oil at 3000 miles, always closer to 5000-7500 miles in cars and light trucks
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I do not miss buying supplies for the 9 liter oil changes in the Mercedes. On the other hand, it was far and away the easiest for oil changes of anything I've ever owned. I could literally do an oil change while wearing a suit. Just a pair of rubber gloves and a rag and you're good to go. I extracted the oil from the top, the filter was RIGHT THERE on the top front of the engine. I never did have the oil drain plug out of that thing. There are some things I really do miss about that car.

Even so, it never cost me more than about $60 or so to do it. $22 for 5 quarts of full synthetic from Wally World on sale, and a $15 filter.
 
I do not miss buying supplies for the 9 liter oil changes in the Mercedes. On the other hand, it was far and away the easiest for oil changes of anything I've ever owned. I could literally do an oil change while wearing a suit. Just a pair of rubber gloves and a rag and you're good to go. I extracted the oil from the top, the filter was RIGHT THERE on the top front of the engine. I never did have the oil drain plug out of that thing. There are some things I really do miss about that car.

Even so, it never cost me more than about $60 or so to do it. $22 for 5 quarts of full synthetic from Wally World on sale, and a $15 filter.

I have a newer freightliner truck that has a Detroit DD13 diesel engine that has a 35000 mile oil change interval and it holds less oil. And it is designed for city/LTL driving!
It also is the first truck I owned that has all filters are above the frame rail! No getting under the truck to change filters. The filters are all replaceable cartridges, no spin on's, cleaner. https://demanddetroit.com/parts-service/support-by-model/dd13/
As time marches on the engines have become much cleaner running, so oil change intervals can be extended as we all know. I can't believe how dirty and smelly a 1999 diesel is! I still have one and it is stinker. I was changing oil in international truck gas engines in 1983 when we got our first DT466 diesel engine. Talk about reliable...
 
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:incazzato::incazzato::incazzato:

I changed the oil in my mom's car yesterday. 5 qts oil, 1 fuel filter and 1 air filter.

92 bucks.

Since the oil only has about 4000 miles (2 years) on it, I saved it to run in my tractor and lawn mower and anything else that needs oil.

2011 Ford Edge (pronounced ed JAY....)

I need to change the oil in my pickup, 2.5 gallons oil, 1 oil filter, 2 fuel filters and air filter. I wonder what that is going to cost me.?? :incazzato::incazzato::incazzato:

$75 for an oil change and rotation on 2019 Terrain last month at my local GM Dealer with a coupon they send me 4x a year.

There are similar prices on Groupon for Valvoline Oil change centers.
 
$75 for an oil change and rotation on 2019 Terrain last month at my local GM Dealer with a coupon they send me 4x a year.

Dang.... I did the oil change myself and it cost more. I do not trust the filters sold at Walmart.
 
I just looked at my GMC dealer coupons I got last week. 6 qt synthetic oil change and tire rotation $64.95 expiring April 22, 2022.
 
Full oil change on the A-26 I used to work on was about 100 gallons....:confused:
 
I have a newer freightliner truck that has a Detroit DD13 diesel engine that has a 35000 mile oil change interval and it holds less oil. And it is designed for city/LTL driving!
It also is the first truck I owned that has all filters are above the frame rail! No getting under the truck to change filters. The filters are all replaceable cartridges, no spin on's, cleaner. https://demanddetroit.com/parts-service/support-by-model/dd13/
As time marches on the engines have become much cleaner running, so oil change intervals can be extended as we all know. I can't believe how dirty and smelly a 1999 diesel is! I still have one and it is stinker. I was changing oil in international truck gas engines in 1983 when we got our first DT466 diesel engine. Talk about reliable...
My 6.0L Powerstroke is like that. Don't need to jack it up to get under it, plug comes out and oil goes straight into the catch pan. Oil and secondary fuel filter is up on top and cartridge style so no mess at all. Only time it's a pain is the primary fuel filter is on the frame rail, so every 10K miles I get an arm covered in diesel, lol.
 
The V-12 XJ-S needed 12qt to do an oil change. It's a pretty large footprint engine.

The Castrol 5w30, for my GM vehicles, at Walmart is just over $20 for a 5-quart jug.

I buy Chevron 5w30 by the case at Costco in Mexico on occasion and I find myself wondering what the price of that will be when I'm down next.
At least you have a decent amount of displacement. My Alfa Spider… 2.0l engine, almost 8l of oil.
 
*Cough* I just did the Ford Excursion 6.0L Powerstroke last weekend: $130 for 4 gallons of 5w-40 and a filter. Granted this was Amsoil, but Motorcraft and Rotella T6 are either unobtanium or cost just about as much when you can find it. That was my cost, not a shop/quick lube.

I too drive a 6.0 excursion and my oil changes are about 70ish.. You can get a 5gal bucket of conventional oil around 52$ from Tractor supply and a filter for around 18$ on amazon.
 
At least you have a decent amount of displacement. My Alfa Spider… 2.0l engine, almost 8l of oil.

Ok, serious response to this. I used to feel this way about low displacement engines having large oil sumps. If you look, it's mostly European engines that do this. There are several factors that can cause a need or desire for this.

1) Oil change interval. More oil means that the contaminants spread out over a larger quantity of oil, so your oil isn't as contaminated per unit volume as it's running through the engine. Although I don't think many if anyone ever did this at the time, my 1992 XJS owner's manual actually allowed for 7,500 mile oil changes with its 12 quart sump.

2) Not needing to top off oil. This is basically a bygone reason, but in the old days of engines leaking or burning lots of oil (Jaguar, as one common example) a big sump could mean you don't run out of oil as quickly.

3) Necessary oil volume so you don't run out of oil due to engine RPM. Oil level within an oil pan is not a static item. While the engine is running, oil is being pumped up through the engine, through the oil cavities, and then has to drain back down into the pan. Obviously these passages don't go dry when you shut the engine off, but especially at high revs, areas like valvetrain can have a lot of oil sitting around that hasn't drained down yet, and that reduces the actual amount of oil in an oil pan.

4) Necessary oil volume so you don't run out of oil during high-G maneuvers. Hard turns, hard acceleration, and hard braking all will make oil move around in the oil pan. Although most high-performance cars have baffled pans of some sort to try to make sure the oil pump never runs out, this is still something that needs to be accounted for. For my Cobra, I bought a baffled racing pan, which holds something on the range of 9-13 quarts for a Ford 351 (I honestly forget the exact number and I've only filled it twice, last time being almost a year ago). Note that a standard pan is going to be about 5, but the biggest reason for the increased capacity on the racing pan is to make sure the oil pickup never runs dry.

Engines are dynamic things, although we usually work on them statically.
 
The MB E320CDI turbo diesel we use to have had an 8 qt sump, and a 13,000mi oil change interval. Yes, I ran those intervals, and at 170,000mi when I traded the car it wasn't the engine (or transmission) that was the problem.
 
The MB E320CDI turbo diesel we use to have had an 8 qt sump, and a 13,000mi oil change interval. Yes, I ran those intervals, and at 170,000mi when I traded the car it wasn't the engine (or transmission) that was the problem.

The E55 Kompressor we had was about a 10k mile interval, also 8 quart(ish) sump. I ran that interval, car had north of 230k miles. While I don't know how the previous owners treated it, I'd be surprised if they changed the oil early. The engine still had no issues, was strong as could be.
 
I too drive a 6.0 excursion and my oil changes are about 70ish.. You can get a 5gal bucket of conventional oil around 52$ from Tractor supply and a filter for around 18$ on amazon.

As expensive as the injectors can be ($900+ for a set of remans), I'll spend the extra money for synthetic lol. I've heard the injectors can be picky about oil varnish/buildups in the spool valves. Since I only change the oil twice a year, it isn't too much extra expense. The filter I generally just pick up at Wally World or the dealership, as it's Motorcraft brand either way. Using non-Motorcraft oil filter on the 6.0L is a no-no from about every source I've read. The aftermarket ones use a different oil filter cap (taller) and some don't play well. The Amsoil filter is identical in design and size to the Motorcraft filter except it supposedly filters down to 20 microns with 99% efficiency vs the OEM at 80% efficiency, and costs about the same.
 
As expensive as the injectors can be ($900+ for a set of remans), I'll spend the extra money for synthetic lol. I've heard the injectors can be picky about oil varnish/buildups in the spool valves. Since I only change the oil twice a year, it isn't too much extra expense. The filter I generally just pick up at Wally World or the dealership, as it's Motorcraft brand either way. Using non-Motorcraft oil filter on the 6.0L is a no-no from about every source I've read. The aftermarket ones use a different oil filter cap (taller) and some don't play well. The Amsoil filter is identical in design and size to the Motorcraft filter except it supposedly filters down to 20 microns with 99% efficiency vs the OEM at 80% efficiency, and costs about the same.

Modern diesels (and when I say "modern" I'm talking most made from the late 90s onwards with electronic injectors) are all a lot more picky about oil type as well as cleanliness. On the Cat 3126B in my RV, they are notoriously picky about having fresh, clean oil (5 gallons worth every 6k miles). A lot of people run Rotella or other items, but the Cat oil is specifically recommended for the HEUI pumps. Also, 10W-30 is recommended as opposed to the standard 15W-40 you see in most diesels.

I won't pretend I'm smarter than the Cat engineers who specified this stuff, so I'll stick to the manual. For the Ram, it's Rotella 15W-40 and Mopar filters on schedule.
 
Modern diesels (and when I say "modern" I'm talking most made from the late 90s onwards with electronic injectors) are all a lot more picky about oil type as well as cleanliness. On the Cat 3126B in my RV, they are notoriously picky about having fresh, clean oil (5 gallons worth every 6k miles). A lot of people run Rotella or other items, but the Cat oil is specifically recommended for the HEUI pumps. Also, 10W-30 is recommended as opposed to the standard 15W-40 you see in most diesels.

I won't pretend I'm smarter than the Cat engineers who specified this stuff, so I'll stick to the manual. For the Ram, it's Rotella 15W-40 and Mopar filters on schedule.
Ford just called out an oil spec for the 6.0L which all of the synthetics meet. However I do know that a couple of injector manufacturers (Warren Diesel) specifically list Rotella use as voiding their product warranty on injectors. I don't know why that is, but it seemed oddly specific.

Ford says you can run 15w-40, 5w-40, or 10w-30 without issue, and provides a guide for the type of environment/air temperature where each grade is acceptable. I run 5w-40, but I don't think that is all that important given my geographic location and relatively light duty.
 
Ford just called out an oil spec for the 6.0L which all of the synthetics meet. However I do know that a couple of injector manufacturers (Warren Diesel) specifically list Rotella use as voiding their product warranty on injectors. I don't know why that is, but it seemed oddly specific.

Ford says you can run 15w-40, 5w-40, or 10w-30 without issue, and provides a guide for the type of environment/air temperature where each grade is acceptable. I run 5w-40, but I don't think that is all that important given my geographic location and relatively light duty.

I can't remember what I ran when I had a 6.0, I want to say I just went with normal Rotella but I might've done something more.

Although on a 6.0, I think the only application that's considered "light duty" is having the engine not run. Anything else is likely to kill it. ;)

Just kidding.
Mostly.
My wallet still hurts from my 6.0.
 
I can't remember what I ran when I had a 6.0, I want to say I just went with normal Rotella but I might've done something more.

Although on a 6.0, I think the only application that's considered "light duty" is having the engine not run. Anything else is likely to kill it. ;)

Just kidding.
Mostly.
My wallet still hurts from my 6.0.

Yeah I remember you not having the best of times with it in the truck. Luckily mine has been problem-free so far, although mine was already studded/deleted with Kill Devil Diesel heads and some other upgrades before I took possession of it. Only having 118K on the clock surely didn't hurt too much, either. I use Rotella in the diesel Kubota tractors/mower, and don't even think twice about it, lol.
 
Yeah I remember you not having the best of times with it in the truck. Luckily mine has been problem-free so far, although mine was already studded/deleted with Kill Devil Diesel heads and some other upgrades before I took possession of it. Only having 118K on the clock surely didn't hurt too much, either. I use Rotella in the diesel Kubota tractors/mower, and don't even think twice about it, lol.

In retrospect, it's pretty obvious that the seller knew it was a POS, and I should've been able to tell. I think it had a +100 HP tune in it with no other mods beyond the EGR delete. He didn't advertise it as such, but the thing did go like stink... when all 8 cylinders were firing.

The other night my wife was saying how I always do really well on vehicle purchases and sales. I said "Well, I win some and lose some." The F-350 was definitely in the "lose some" category for me, although for the most part I do typically seem to have more wins than losses.
 
As expensive as the injectors can be ($900+ for a set of remans), I'll spend the extra money for synthetic lol. I've heard the injectors can be picky about oil varnish/buildups in the spool valves. Since I only change the oil twice a year, it isn't too much extra expense. The filter I generally just pick up at Wally World or the dealership, as it's Motorcraft brand either way. Using non-Motorcraft oil filter on the 6.0L is a no-no from about every source I've read. The aftermarket ones use a different oil filter cap (taller) and some don't play well. The Amsoil filter is identical in design and size to the Motorcraft filter except it supposedly filters down to 20 microns with 99% efficiency vs the OEM at 80% efficiency, and costs about the same.


I agree on the filter.. Motorcraft FL2016 all the way.. In fact I don't think I have ever seen any clones... As far as the oil is concerned, I change every 5k religiously. The engine runs great and I dont appear to be getting any sludge.

I sort of have the opinion that oil comes from the ground and most conventional oils are the same. If it has the correct ratings, SJI API whatever then I'll give it a whirl.
 
I agree on the filter.. Motorcraft FL2016 all the way.. In fact I don't think I have ever seen any clones... As far as the oil is concerned, I change every 5k religiously. The engine runs great and I dont appear to be getting any sludge.

I sort of have the opinion that oil comes from the ground and most conventional oils are the same. If it has the correct ratings, SJI API whatever then I'll give it a whirl.

I think Wix and a few others have a replacement cartridge, but it uses a taller cap which isn't compatible with the FL2016/Amsoil filters. The problem comes when someone goes back with the shorter FL2016 filter with the taller cap and then wonders why they're having oil pressure issues.
 
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