New utility trailer - some feedback please

That's a sharp looking trailer. Dual axles are a great idea. My only 2 cents would be nylock nuts for the license plate if you don't already have them, and a way better lock unless you're always close to it.
 
Albany Tom said:
That's a sharp looking trailer. Dual axles are a great idea. My only 2 cents would be nylock nuts for the license plate if you don't already have them, and a way better lock unless you're always close to it.
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Thanks!

For the tag I used some AN hardware I had with nylock nuts. What sort of lock might you suggest? The little Craftsman padlock I have through the hitch would fall pretty easily to bolt cutters, though theft is not a huge concern of mine where we live.
 
We had heard horror stories about Rykers having parts ripped off as they went over the hump formed by trailer ramps. Our solution attacks the problem from both ends - 2 pieces of 4x4 to lift the ramp slightly, and 2 pieces of 2x4 to raise the front slightly over the hump. In action:


Notes:

1) The weird flashing of the brake light is a frame rate artifact.

2) Someone suggested just jacking up the front of the trailer to accomplish the same thing, but my way seems easier.

3) From loading motorcycles into pickups, the motto was “There’s always a berm or a ditch”. But sometimes it’s nice to be able to load/unload on flat ground.

4) Walking the bike up or down to take weight off it is problematic, since the only brake is the foot brake.

5) If you have scoliosis, maybe shirts with horizontal strips are not the best idea!
 
As far as the lock is concerned, get a proper coupler lock like this design or similar. It won't completely prevent theft, but it's a decent deterrent and pretty difficult to defeat quickly like the coupler pin locks which I can snap off with a crescent wrench in 5 seconds. You can put chain through the wheel spokes on one side as well, but it's probably overboard where you're located.

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The wood pieces seem to work just fine, you might cut an angle on each end of the 2x4's to give it a more gradual incline and help avoid the tires pushing the 2x4. I've used a dip in the road or driveway to lessen the angle of ramps as well by putting the trailer axles in the bottom of the dip. Use whatever tools get the job done.
 
FastEddieB said:
2) Someone suggested just jacking up the front of the trailer to accomplish the same thing, but my way seems easier.
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2X4, 2X6, 2X8 and 4X4 blocks are always handy to have with a trailer. Looks like you got it figured out. Will those blocks work if a bike has a flat tire.??
 
FastEddieB said:
Thanks!

For the tag I used some AN hardware I had with nylock nuts. What sort of lock might you suggest? The little Craftsman padlock I have through the hitch would fall pretty easily to bolt cutters, though theft is not a huge concern of mine where we live.
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I have an ancient armored masterlock, that still has cut marks on it from someone trying to get a grip on it with bolt cutters 20 years ago, so I don't know of a specific modern option. My theory is that if it's clear that if it doesn't have an unguarded shackle on it, or it's a standard lock that looks like it can be popped off with a hit from a hammer, it's going to be a tempting target for a part time thief. So I'd go for something that looks massive and solid. A pro is going to get through just about anything. Just going for the theory of not making it look easy for a random person driving by.
 
SoonerAviator said:
The wood pieces seem to work just fine, you might cut an angle on each end of the 2x4's to give it a more gradual incline and help avoid the tires pushing the 2x4.
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I actually screwed in those two 2x4 pieces. They’re not in the way and are probably semi-permanent additions as long as we own the Ryker, and will likely stain them to match for purely cosmetic reasons. I thought about beveling their leading edges and may still do so, but it doesn’t seem strictly necessary.
 
FastEddieB said:
I actually screwed in those two 2x4 pieces. They’re not in the way and are probably semi-permanent additions as long as we own the Ryker, and will likely stain them to match for purely cosmetic reasons. I thought about beveling their leading edges and may still do so, but it doesn’t seem strictly necessary.
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Not necessary as you have demonstrated, but it just makes the transitions a lot less abrupt. I probably wouldn't have secured them to the floor myself since they may inhibit future non-motorcycle use of the trailer, but that's just me.
 
SoonerAviator said:
I probably wouldn't have secured them to the floor myself since they may inhibit future non-motorcycle use of the trailer, but that's just me.
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Well, that’s why I specified semi-permanent. Just attached for now with two deck screws each. If I think they’ll be coming on and off regularly, probably install threaded inserts and machine screws instead.
 
On this thread stumbled across another T-dub! Seems they’re (their, there?) everywhere these days, except on dealers’ floors and used sites (sights?) for reasonable prices…..been seeking one for months now.
Having fun with yours (your’s?) ?
 
I think the thing about sway control and distribution hitches is that with a utility trailer you can greatly control the balance....and it can change form trip to trip in a major way....but you can almost always balance the load. With a travel trailer those things can be built off balance and because there are only certain places to put your heavy stuff in, it can be less than optimal.
 
I know I bought more trailer than I really currently need, but a neighbor on the airport made good use of it to get his Kubota to and from the dealer for a recall:

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Said it towed like a dream. Still glad I “future proofed”.
 
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