The Ted Race Team: Because Racecar

I've been shredding enough paper to make the garbage man think this is the secret Enron headquarters.
Going to start one of those NY bonfires?

We had to go through one of those purges, too, under similar circumstances. I used the local Shred-It. It was pretty simple, saved a lot of time, and didn't cost TOO much. They have a minimum charge, and that included up to 6 of those computer paper sized boxes.
 
My hometown recycling center offers secure shredding; when my parents moved out of the house, I hauled boxes of paperwork there, paid $10, and deposited it in a locked bin. Everyone go their own locked bin, where things stayed until the shredding truck came to town.

Unfortunately, nothing like that is available where I now live, and I seem to burn out shredders every few years, so I now rely on the fire pit.
 
Going to start one of those NY bonfires?

We had to go through one of those purges, too, under similar circumstances. I used the local Shred-It. It was pretty simple, saved a lot of time, and didn't cost TOO much. They have a minimum charge, and that included up to 6 of those computer paper sized boxes.

I bought an Amazon Basics 24-page cross-cut shredder and the building gave me a bunch of very large bags to fill, like 55 gallon drum sized bags. I lost count of how many I filled, but I think it was 6. In the end it was a lot easier than having to take paper anywhere (remember, this is Manhattan and I have no car here). Since I had to look through things to make sure I didn't miss anything, I basically just shredded as I went.

But now I'm done. I've hit a mental wall. And I'm going home.
 
I've been shredding enough paper to make the garbage man think this is the secret Enron headquarters.
Your mom let you shred paper? I had to wait until mine was no longer living in her home to start shredding.
 
I bought an Amazon Basics 24-page cross-cut shredder and the building gave me a bunch of very large bags to fill, like 55 gallon drum sized bags. I lost count of how many I filled, but I think it was 6. In the end it was a lot easier than having to take paper anywhere (remember, this is Manhattan and I have no car here). Since I had to look through things to make sure I didn't miss anything, I basically just shredded as I went.

But now I'm done. I've hit a mental wall. And I'm going home.
Then you should throw yourself a ticker tape parade.

Yeah, dealing with that sort of situation is exhausting, mentally and physically. Been there, and probably will be again...more than once.
 
Your mom let you shred paper? I had to wait until mine was no longer living in her home to start shredding.

Yes, fortunately now that we've had "the talk" about the situation, she's been surprisingly good about letting me handle things as I see fit. I'm rather shocked, but I'll take it.
 
I've never come across a track that allowed antifreeze on the premises. Of course, I was exclusively racing motorcycles where antifreeze on the track is pretty much an instant wreck.
All the Saturday night NASCAR bullrings don't allow antifreeze either. In fact, in the later years I worked at ODS, we had the cars direct the radiator overflow up on to the windshield so the driver would know right away he's leaking.
 
A few weeks ago I pulled the carb off of the RX-7 and placed it on top of a gallon jug of Berryman's carb cleaner. The two didn't figure out what they were supposed to do together on their own so nothing has happened in that time period.

Today I looked through the Haynes manual discussing the rebuild of the carb and it's very clear that this is something I don't want to do until I can get to where I can have a dedicated workspace for it that won't get disturbed, and be able to block out some time over the course of a weekend to do. The carb is pretty complicated so lots of small parts that must be kept track of. Right now my garage is a mess between the Cobra, motorcycles, work on the RV interior redesign and bearing replacement, and other stuff that overflowed into it while waiting on the new shop to get rebuilt.

However, I need to get some parts in to get going on things. So I'm ordering a carb rebuild kit today as well as spark plugs, and should probably get wires and a cap and rotor coming. When I pull the plugs to replace them I'll put some oil in the rotors and turn it over by hand a few times to make sure everything seems to move freely.

I could also get some brake caliper rebuild kits and rebuild those since that's a good indoor activity while the shop is still under construction (and having no good driveway spot to work on anything right now), but I think I'll focus on things that get me in the direction of getting the engine running first. I may rebuild the calipers in parallel once I can put the thing in the shop, but it's still sitting on the trailer since I lack a good place to put it (and haven't needed the trailer) so I'd rather not put it on jacks and truly make the trailer unusable. :)
 
Berryman's B-12 will remove the protective plating on the carburetor body and eat away material on small parts like springs, which creates issues a bit after reassembly. I avoid the stuff.
 
That factory carb is VERY complicated!! No, more than that. Not sure how available the manifold might be, but consider a more traditional four-barrel if the ruleset allows it.
Also, there were mods possible for the factory carb that made it better for racing. Can't recall the specifics but such a unit was on one of my cars.
 
That factory carb is VERY complicated!! No, more than that. Not sure how available the manifold might be, but consider a more traditional four-barrel if the ruleset allows it.
Also, there were mods possible for the factory carb that made it better for racing. Can't recall the specifics but such a unit was on one of my cars.

Manifolds are readily available but personally I’d favor a Weber over a Holley. But since he already has this carburetor I’d clean it up first and see what happens. Especially since as you note, class rules may prohibit aftermarket setups.

I personally wouldn’t be sticking much money in parts until I hear the thing run, since it has sat idle for a period of time. Doing a compression test would be high on my list of immediate actions...
 
Not an RX-7 (Alfa GTV6) but I wanted to post because it's also got a Watt linkage, albeit with a central bellcrank. Pretty interesting setup with De Dion tube and inboard discs. I've had a chance to drive a few Milanos and 164s, and those aspro Alfa V-6s sound wonderful!

1984_alfa_romeo_gtv6_1610413753a628c372fIMG_2292.jpg
 
Berryman's B-12 will remove the protective plating on the carburetor body and eat away material on small parts like springs, which creates issues a bit after reassembly. I avoid the stuff.

This is the stuff I got:

https://www.berrymanproducts.com/pr...rryman-chem-dip-carburetor-and-parts-cleaner/

Would you recommend something different?

That factory carb is VERY complicated!! No, more than that. Not sure how available the manifold might be, but consider a more traditional four-barrel if the ruleset allows it.
Also, there were mods possible for the factory carb that made it better for racing. Can't recall the specifics but such a unit was on one of my cars.

I'm not a carb person but yes, this one struck me as probably the most complex one I've seen. Seeing as I'm not 100% sure what series I'm racing in just yet, though (plus the issue mentioned in the next quoted post...) I think it makes more sense to try to rebuild this one first. After all, the car was running, and while it is complex, it seems a number of people with no previous experience have rebuilt them successfully. I suspect I can manage.

Manifolds are readily available but personally I’d favor a Weber over a Holley. But since he already has this carburetor I’d clean it up first and see what happens. Especially since as you note, class rules may prohibit aftermarket setups.

I personally wouldn’t be sticking much money in parts until I hear the thing run, since it has sat idle for a period of time. Doing a compression test would be high on my list of immediate actions...

Yes, this thing has been sitting for a while. And while I am confident it will run and drive, I want to avoid dumping too much money into it until I get to that point, and then also figuring out where I want to race it series wise so I can tailor my upgrades to those rules.

Not an RX-7 (Alfa GTV6) but I wanted to post because it's also got a Watt linkage, albeit with a central bellcrank. Pretty interesting setup with De Dion tube and inboard discs. I've had a chance to drive a few Milanos and 164s, and those aspro Alfa V-6s sound wonderful!

View attachment 93340

I drove an Alfa 156 on the Autobahn and around the Swiss Alps. It's the only V6, front wheel drive car I've ever driven that I fell in love with. I'd absolutely buy one if it was available here. The Alfas they're selling here now are pretty but the mechanicals of them don't do it for me.
 
Yes, this thing has been sitting for a while. And while I am confident it will run and drive, I want to avoid dumping too much money into it until I get to that point, and then also figuring out where I want to race it series wise so I can tailor my upgrades to those rules.

Do the compression test I suggested before going much further, or at least bar the engine over by hand and listen for even popping noises coming out of the exhaust. The sealing system to create compression is more complex than a piston engine and can cause trouble in idle engines.

Here’s a fairly good video assessing used engines and what to look for.
 
Do the compression test I suggested before going much further, or at least bar the engine over by hand and listen for even popping noises coming out of the exhaust. The sealing system to create compression is more complex than a piston engine and can cause trouble in idle engines.

Here’s a fairly good video assessing used engines and what to look for.

The concept of a compression test on a rotary is also interesting to me, since one rotor in some ways has the equivalent of 3 cylinders. I realize it's not an apples to apples comparison since rotaries operate differently from piston engines. It'll still tell you which rotor has low compression and I suppose that's what matters.

I was planning on barring the engine over by hand when I pull the spark plugs.
 
Manifolds are readily available but personally I’d favor a Weber over a Holley.
I've driven a Weber 40IDF on a Mazda 13B. About the only bad thing I could say about it is that it didn't like sudden abrupt throttle applications.
 
I've driven a Weber 40IDF on a Mazda 13B. About the only bad thing I could say about it is that it didn't like sudden abrupt throttle applications.

Not an uncommon experience. There are a number of reasons for this but with such a small carburetor on that engine my suspicion is that they were running one of the largest chokes available which can can cause a dead spot. A smaller choke would probably help but top end power may be hampered too.

Smallest Weber I’d run would be a 48IDA or 48DCOE.
 
This is the stuff I got:

https://www.berrymanproducts.com/pr...rryman-chem-dip-carburetor-and-parts-cleaner/

Would you recommend something different?

I'm loathe to do that because of my lack of recent experience. After a bit of investigation, I discovered that Berryman now markets a fuel system additive that's poured into the fuel tank under the B-12 name, and Chemdip is the moniker for their immersion and soaking cleaner. I haven't used either in those capacities.

The last tiime I used B-12 was in 2005, and I made the comment to you regarding its suitability as an immersion cleaner as I experienced it. The change in its formula and application renders my experience moot. That formula was chemically aggressive, and I wrote the comments to warn you about it.

I think asking other members with recent experience about such immersion cleaners would be more helpful. I believe they would have more relevant information.
 
I think asking other members with recent experience about such immersion cleaners would be more helpful. I believe they would have more relevant information.

I bought the Berryman's gallon jug at the recommendation of friends of mine who've used it on carbs as well as Bosch K-Jet mechanical fuel injection systems, and reported good success with it. It sounds like I'm probably fine to still use it, but I'm always open to suggestions if others have them.
 
I bought the Berryman's gallon jug at the recommendation of friends of mine who've used it on carbs as well as Bosch K-Jet mechanical fuel injection systems, and reported good success with it. It sounds like I'm probably fine to still use it, but I'm always open to suggestions if others have them.

Careful with that stuff. I don't know if they've changed the formula due to EPA regs, etc., but the original Berryman's was an effective flesh-dissolver as well!
 
Careful with that stuff. I don't know if they've changed the formula due to EPA regs, etc., but the original Berryman's was an effective flesh-dissolver as well!

I’m guessing the Berryman’s has changed just like all the other carburetor cleaner has that I’ve tried. The stuff you’ve been able to get for the last 15-20 years or so is worthless if the goal is to clean a carburetor.

The old stuff was amazing. I wish I still had a can of that.
 
Not an RX-7 (Alfa GTV6) but I wanted to post because it's also got a Watt linkage, albeit with a central bellcrank. Pretty interesting setup with De Dion tube and inboard discs. I've had a chance to drive a few Milanos and 164s, and those aspro Alfa V-6s sound wonderful!

View attachment 93340

I understand the de Deon, I understand the i/b discs, I don't understand the purpose of the watt linkage.
 
I understand the de Deon, I understand the i/b discs, I don't understand the purpose of the watt linkage.

Yes, it's a device to locate the suspension laterally as it goes through its range of motion. In theory, better than a Panhard rod (which swings in an arc and allows axle to move laterally a little) but it is heavier.

Here's a Panhard rod:

panhard.jpg
 
In theory, better than a Panhard rod (which swings in an arc and allows axle to move laterally a little)
In theory, a Panhard rod can introduce jacking forces under certain circumstances.
 
The concept of a compression test on a rotary is also interesting to me, since one rotor in some ways has the equivalent of 3 cylinders. I realize it's not an apples to apples comparison since rotaries operate differently from piston engines. It'll still tell you which rotor has low compression and I suppose that's what matters.

You need a logging compression tester for a rotary, so that you can determine the compression of each of the three lobes. Back in the 80's when I worked in a Mazda store the compression tester spit out a piece of graph paper. If you use the compression tester that you'd use for a reciprocating engine, you're going to get the value for the lobe with the best compression only.

I was planning on barring the engine over by hand when I pull the spark plugs.

Be careful. Sometimes the seals stick to the rotor housing. What we used to do when that happened is to drill a hole in the bellhousing and turn the engine backwards a little with a long blade screwdriver. Pushing it forward was reputed to break the apex seal. We referred to this as "body shop syndrome" because it most commonly occurred in cars that waited a long time for a bodywork repair.
 
Dirt Track or Pavement?

The car was originally built for roadracing.

The intent is road racing, as it was built for. Dirt would require a lot of changes.

You need a logging compression tester for a rotary, so that you can determine the compression of each of the three lobes. Back in the 80's when I worked in a Mazda store the compression tester spit out a piece of graph paper. If you use the compression tester that you'd use for a reciprocating engine, you're going to get the value for the lobe with the best compression only.

I had the same thought. I’ll probably start by just seeing how it feels running.

Be careful. Sometimes the seals stick to the rotor housing. What we used to do when that happened is to drill a hole in the bellhousing and turn the engine backwards a little with a long blade screwdriver. Pushing it forward was reputed to break the apex seal. We referred to this as "body shop syndrome" because it most commonly occurred in cars that waited a long time for a bodywork repair.

That makes sense. I got the spark lugs today, so I may give that a shot when I have a nice weather day coming up.
 
But have you been to a Dirt track :) Come on, lets go..
 
But have you been to a Dirt track :) Come on, lets go..

I would really like to race on dirt. I would also like to race on dirt with a car that is set up for it, and not for pavement.

While I am the king of putting the cart before the horse, I also need to get this car running first. :)
 
I would really like to race on dirt. I would also like to race on dirt with a car that is set up for it, and not for pavement.

While I am the king of putting the cart before the horse, I also need to get this car running first. :)

Go find you a nice used Micro Sprint car and make a circle dirt track on your property. They're a hoot with 600CC engines!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ted
Go find you a nice used Micro Sprint car and make a circle dirt track on your property. They're a hoot with 600CC engines!

That's a valid point. Our dirt track is basically our property. We have our 150cc go kart and the girls drive the little 100cc or so. I've been wanting to get a dune buggy for the property.
 
That's a valid point. Our dirt track is basically our property. We have our 150cc go kart and the girls drive the little 100cc or so. I've been wanting to get a dune buggy for the property.

The Micro Sprints can obviously be set up for flat track, but a "buggy" may be a more versatile option as I'd think the novelty of a sprint car would wear off pretty quickly if you aren't actually racing it. At least the buggy could be run around the property for fun, although a Yamaha Raptor or similar may be a bit more fun and would take the impacts of rough terrain easier than your spine in a dune buggy seat.
 
The Micro Sprints can obviously be set up for flat track, but a "buggy" may be a more versatile option as I'd think the novelty of a sprint car would wear off pretty quickly if you aren't actually racing it. At least the buggy could be run around the property for fun, although a Yamaha Raptor or similar may be a bit more fun and would take the impacts of rough terrain easier than your spine in a dune buggy seat.

That's why the dune buggy makes sense (versatility, etc.). It always surprises me how much they cost, though.
 
There hasn’t been any progress on this, due to the shop not being complete and it being colder than Antarctica outside the past few weeks.

But after talking to my friends who are planning on being part of this, we’ve decided that once the shop is done we’ll plan on a wrenching weekend when we hopefully get it at least running and driving, maybe even ready to race. So sometime in probably April we’ll get that done. I may tinker with it some before, but I really want to get the Cobra running and driving and that’s a 100% me project, so I’ll probably focus my wrenching there and wait for the Calvary to arrive for the RX-7.
 
There hasn’t been any progress on this, due to the shop not being complete and it being colder than Antarctica outside the past few weeks.

But after talking to my friends who are planning on being part of this, we’ve decided that once the shop is done we’ll plan on a wrenching weekend when we hopefully get it at least running and driving, maybe even ready to race. So sometime in probably April we’ll get that done. I may tinker with it some before, but I really want to get the Cobra running and driving and that’s a 100% me project, so I’ll probably focus my wrenching there and wait for the Calvary to arrive for the RX-7.

Let me know if you are looking for people to drink your beer and mock things that weekend.
 
There hasn’t been any progress on this, due to the shop not being complete and it being colder than Antarctica outside the past few weeks.

But after talking to my friends who are planning on being part of this, we’ve decided that once the shop is done we’ll plan on a wrenching weekend when we hopefully get it at least running and driving, maybe even ready to race. So sometime in probably April we’ll get that done. I may tinker with it some before, but I really want to get the Cobra running and driving and that’s a 100% me project, so I’ll probably focus my wrenching there and wait for the Calvary to arrive for the RX-7.

If you run into an odd-ball tool you need, there's a good chance I've got it. Happy to help if you need a hand.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ted
If you run into an odd-ball tool you need, there's a good chance I've got it. Happy to help if you need a hand.

Thanks, and I'll let you know when that weekend is determined. If I had to guess, it'll be sometime in April. If I really do a good job (which I probably won't) the Cobra will be ready for first start about then, too.
 
IT7 is still a thing? Did Mazda start making 12a housings again or did they allow the 13b into the class?

We had a '79 streetcar when I was a kid, so they have a special place in my heart. But when I looked to maybe do some IT7 several years ago it seemed on the decline as no new 12a housings means a limited life span of the class as they required basically stock 12a motors. And if you wanted to run near the front the housing and rotor were wear items to be replaced every few seasons.

Now I occasionally glance the spec miata for sale pages....

Anyway good luck with the RX7 Ted they are great driving cars.
 
Back
Top