Starting Unpickeled Engine

weirdjim

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weirdjim
OK, so I have A&P/IA after my name. That doesn't automatically make me any smarter than somebody that has done this successfully. And please, don't nag me for stupidity. I feel stupid enough.

January '19 (that would be over a year and a half ago) I tucked the baby blue 182A into the hangar. Shortly thereafter, my darling wife tucked a lot of her junk treasured keepsakes in to wedge blue into non-removal.

Now we are starting to dig out of that mess. And I want to start the engine and go fly. But I'm pretty sure she has nasty stuff inside the engine that I'd rather not scrape off with expensive parts.

How can I start that engine with minimal internal damage?

Thanks,

Jim
 

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You may or may not be a fan... I have to speed this guy up to 1.5 or 1.75, but there do seem to be some useful bits

 
A friend on mine AP/IA said to pour MMO into top plug and let set 24 hours. Remove lower plug drain reinstall plug and do it again
 
A friend on mine AP/IA said to pour MMO into top plug and let set 24 hours. Remove lower plug drain reinstall plug and do it again
Friend of yours forgot to tell you that the cylinder needed to be at BDC on the compression stroke or (a) the whole cylinder doesn't get coated or (b) you lose a LOT of MMO out the open valve. BTW, an o-470 uses a LOT of MMO to fill up a cylinder at BDC, but even at $35 a gallon, if it saves a $12K top it is WAY worth it.

A drilled out plug on the bottom hole with a valve on it lets you catch the MMO, strain it, and then use it in another cylinder.

Did it this way on the DC-3 & -7 for the airlines, but would NEVER admit it to any Fed that asks. Was just a fairy tale, but one that worked for a LONG time. And would NEVER use it on an airplane. No sir, not me, uh-uh. Just knock and say the secret password when you want in the hangar.

Jim
 
My 90 some year old hangar neighbor sprays his cylinders and crank case with a wand that uses compressed air and an induction nozzle (venturi nozzle) with a tube in a container of MMO. Just a short spray in each cyl at BDC, and oil fill neck. Then he starts em (2 Bo’s) and fogs the airport, lol. Both his engines are past TBO and he put all the hours on em. He does this before he leaves his planes for Florida in the winter, and in the spring when he gets back.
 
Was any preservation done prior the put away ?
 
Was any preservation done prior the put away ?
UNpickeled engine. Didn't know she needed the hangar for a year and a half. Love of my life (see photo) but a total nerf when it comes to doing things on a schedule.

Jim
 
a 1 and half year isn't much, I would do this.
pull all the spark plugs.
spray all the cylinders with WD40 (use a garden sprayer)
rotate the cylinders and watch what comes out.
and hope you don't see a lot of rusty stuff draining out of the lower spark plug holes .

Let us know what you see.
 
Last edited:
Put a scope in there and look. May not be an issue. Lube them up and go


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a 1 and half year isn't much, I would do this.
pull all the spark plugs.
spray all the cylinders with WD40 (use a garden sprayer)
rotate the cylinders and watch what comes out.
and hope you don't see a lot of rusty stuff draining out of the lower spark plug holes .

Let us know what you see.

I would do that plus:

Motor the engine over with the starter till the oil pressure gauge moves, WITH THE SPARK PLUGS OUT AND THE MAGS GROUNDED.

I've done this a few times after oil change and it takes maybe 15 seconds of cranking before the oil pressure comes up. Then I usually reassemble the airplane and top charge the battery.
 
I would do that plus:

Motor the engine over with the starter till the oil pressure gauge moves, WITH THE SPARK PLUGS OUT AND THE MAGS GROUNDED.

I've done this a few times after oil change and it takes maybe 15 seconds of cranking before the oil pressure comes up. Then I usually reassemble the airplane and top charge the battery.
Wouldn't hurt, and I thing the battery would be toast.
 
I used to use a suction sprayer and MMO to coat the cylinder walls, wait about as much time as it takes to re-torque the plugs, and fire it up. Honestly? I've stored float planes and wheel planes outdoors from October til April and not done anything but turn the key when it was time to start them up. No difference that I can tell.
 
There's a couple of good tips here:
https://cessnaowner.org/airplane-oil-systems/

I don't know much about the O-470, does the oil cooler go through a vernatherm? I would be tempted to disconnect the oil cooler return line and pump some oil through it and hopefully getting some oil to your bearings...
 
Honestly? I've stored float planes and wheel planes outdoors from October til April and not done anything but turn the key when it was time to start them up. No difference that I can tell.
No signs of corrosion on those engines?
 
A039F1B7-B723-494D-8DAE-4043A37E5F1F.jpeg
There's a couple of good tips here:
https://cessnaowner.org/airplane-oil-systems/

I don't know much about the O-470, does the oil cooler go through a vernatherm? I would be tempted to disconnect the oil cooler return line and pump some oil through it and hopefully getting some oil to your bearings...
The cooler mounts directly to the case and the vernatherm mounts into the cooler. No oil lines.
 
We've been at 95 during the day and expected to be there the rest of the month. I don't think preheat could get that hot. Thanks,

JIm
Use a scope and look inside a couple of cylinders. It'd be interesting to hear what you find.
 
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