[rant]2017 Ford Fusion Battery[rant]

Sac Arrow

Touchdown! Greaser!
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Snorting his way across the USA
7/28

I drive in to work. I notice that the side marker lights on the Fusion are on. I get the FOB. First of all, there is no key hole visable. I spot a slot under the rear of the door handle. It won't accept the slide out key. After Youtubing, I discover that you have to jam the key up in there, and pop the plastic fairing out, and then you can access the key. I see the lights had been left on. There is not enough power in the system to operate the rotary switch to turn the lights off. The marker lights are LED's. They are still draining the battery.

7/31

I should have brought the charger and extension cord on 7/28. I forgot. Half the battery is buried under the dash panel. I cannot access the negative terminal. Best I can do is charger positive on the battery, and negative ground on an exposed frame member. Didn't discover I didn't have a good ground until the PM. Bag it and shoot for Monday.

8/3

Got a charge in the battery. Enough to power the electronics. Try to start it. Lots of unstoppable clicking noises, battery is dead again. Conclude that the battery is toast.

The battery is buried halfway under the dash.

I Google for instructions. All the videos show the battery not buried halfway under the dash. I'm looking for a video of one with the battery buried halfway under the dash.

The battery is buried halfway under the dash.

I remove the battery clamp, and hope that there is enough wiggle room to finess the battery out. No joy. No amount of prying, wiggling, etc. will work. The airbox is in the way. The entire airbox. Not just the cover.

8/4

F this. Tomorrow the car is going to the dealer on a flatbed truck. Yeah we don't need the expense of a tow and service, but I'm not dealing with it. What a complete POS of a car.
 
The accessibility descriptions remind me of some small airplanes I've owned... :mad:
 
I Google for instructions. All the videos show the battery not buried halfway under the dash. I'm looking for a video of one with the battery buried halfway under the dash.

The battery is buried halfway under the dash.
What engine was in the video? What engine is in yours? Perhaps the difference could be attributable to 4cyl vs 6cyl?
 
I had a Chevy Lumina. Couldn't even see the battery. It was buried under he windshield washer fluid tank. I had to have a mechanic point it out to me.
Damn design engineers.
 
What engine was in the video? What engine is in yours? Perhaps the difference could be attributable to 4cyl vs 6cyl?

Maybe. Ours has the super boosted 1.5L engine.
 
A critical part of my campaign platform: All designers (engineers, UX, etc.,) must spend five years maintaining the type of products they are now creating.
(I know I can count on all of you for a crippling but helpful campaign contribution.)
 
A critical part of my campaign platform: All designers (engineers, UX, etc.,) must spend five years maintaining the type of products they are now creating.
(I know I can count on all of you for a crippling but helpful campaign contribution.)

Every design is a compromise. Considerations such as meeting government mandated fuel economy requirements, drag coefficients, vehicle size and vehicle weight all now come well ahead of maintenance accessibility considerations.

This isn't your grandfather's Oldmobile (with its cavernous engine compartment).
 
Every design is a compromise. Considerations such as meeting government mandated fuel economy requirements, drag coefficients, vehicle size and vehicle weight all now come well ahead of maintenance accessibility considerations.

This isn't your grandfather's Oldmobile (with its cavernous engine compartment).

yeah, but there are some certainties in automotive. You’ll have to change the oil. You’ll have to add washer fluid. You’ll have to change the breaks. You’ll have to replace a battery. You’ll have to change the lights. All of these should be easily accessible.

why do I have to take the bumper off to replace a headlight in some cars? That’s just stupid.
 
The oil filter on my Frontier truck isn't much better. You can disassemble the skid plate if you need to get a wrench on it - I've learned to do it by feel. Of course, oil goes everywhere.
 
yeah, but there are some certainties in automotive. You’ll have to change the oil. You’ll have to add washer fluid. You’ll have to change the breaks. You’ll have to replace a battery. You’ll have to change the lights. All of these should be easily accessible.

why do I have to take the bumper off to replace a headlight in some cars? That’s just stupid.
Exactly. Shoving an oil filter up in a cavity that forces you to drain oil all over the suspension and steering rack is absurd for a normal maintenance item. In the wife's '07 GMC, I have to remove the aux battery tray to loosen the windshield washer reservoir in order to get access to the driver's side headlight bulb. Asinine. Certain items should be engineered so that access is unencumbered and require no specialty tools.
 
That’s certainly a SAC worthy rant. We have a 2016 2.0 Ecoboost Fusion, and if you look a little to the right of the battery, you will see a post with a thick black wire running to it. That thick black wire runs to the negative terminal of the battery. The post is there to allow battery charging and jump starting. In fact, over the weekend I used said post to help jump start a neighbors car.

As for changing the battery? Just jump start the sucker and go to autozone. They’ll change it for you, that’s what I did. Let them deal with the battery half under the dash (or more precisely the upper cowl).
 
That’s certainly a SAC worthy rant. We have a 2016 2.0 Ecoboost Fusion, and if you look a little to the right of the battery, you will see a post with a thick black wire running to it. That thick black wire runs to the negative terminal of the battery. The post is there to allow battery charging and jump starting. In fact, over the weekend I used said post to help jump start a neighbors car.

As for changing the battery? Just jump start the sucker and go to autozone. They’ll change it for you, that’s what I did. Let them deal with the battery half under the dash (or more precisely the upper cowl).

Hmm. Worthy of consideration.
 
Oh, and BTW, removing the battery isn't difficult. Remove red harness from positive terminal. Remove clamp at lower front of the battery. Slide battery forward to the front of the battery tray (that's why it's longer than the battery), remove the black harness from the negative post, lift the battery out. Reverse to install.
 
Heck an early 2000s anything with the GM 3800 will outlive anything being made today.
Maybe... but is there anything so equipped that you'd ever want to drive, or be seen driving?

My wife's Fusion (2010 hybrid) had a battery that was easy to get to. Only problem was that apparently no one on the planet carries a replacement other than the dealer.

When I think about it, though, we (or at least I) am getting really spoiled. I just had to put a new battery in my truck, and a few months back I changed the plugs at 60K miles. Maintenance schedule says that's a 100K mile item, but they were pretty well worn. That, though, is the only thing I've had to do other than oil changes in over nine years of ownership.We owned Wifey's Fusion Hybrid for 7 or 8 years and touched nothing other than oil changes, tires, and a starting battery.
 
Maybe... but is there anything so equipped that you'd ever want to drive, or be seen driving?

LOL sure. We only have the Subaru for the AWD.

Couldn’t care less about what anybody “sees” me in. Never was into “image culture”.

If it rolls down the road and does the job, and is paid off... it’s fine by me! LOL.

Most of what had the 3800 were Buicks. They’re fine.

The backup Subaru here looks in worse shape than most of them these days and it’s a great little backup other than leaking oil from everywhere because boxer engine... ha.
 
Maybe... but is there anything so equipped that you'd ever want to drive, or be seen driving?

My wife's Fusion (2010 hybrid) had a battery that was easy to get to. Only problem was that apparently no one on the planet carries a replacement other than the dealer.

When I think about it, though, we (or at least I) am getting really spoiled. I just had to put a new battery in my truck, and a few months back I changed the plugs at 60K miles. Maintenance schedule says that's a 100K mile item, but they were pretty well worn. That, though, is the only thing I've had to do other than oil changes in over nine years of ownership.We owned Wifey's Fusion Hybrid for 7 or 8 years and touched nothing other than oil changes, tires, and a starting battery.

The late 90's/early 00's Pontiac Grand Prix GTP had a supercharged 3800 series II that was pretty good. Not a ton of HP (240HP I think), but for the time period is was pretty stout for a V6 sedan. I can still remember the "Widetrack Grand Prix" commercials, lol.
 
Oh, and BTW, removing the battery isn't difficult. Remove red harness from positive terminal. Remove clamp at lower front of the battery. Slide battery forward to the front of the battery tray (that's why it's longer than the battery), remove the black harness from the negative post, lift the battery out. Reverse to install.

Tried. Not even close to being enough clearance.
 
I have a Subaru Outback and a Legacy.

Next time a headlight bulb needs replacing, I am selling the car. Much easier than changing the bulb.
Hopefully you paid for the upgrade to LED or HID. The bulb should last longer than the car unless there's a wreck.
 
Hopefully you paid for the upgrade to LED or HID. The bulb should last longer than the car unless there's a wreck.

Oh great... now you tell me.....:lol::lol:

Both cars are on the list to go away in the next year, hopefully.
 
I had a Chevy Lumina. Couldn't even see the battery. It was buried under he windshield washer fluid tank. I had to have a mechanic point it out to me.
Damn design engineers.

I have one that I still drive daily. You can really tell this thing was designed way before 1998 just by working on it compared the 2002 Impala I wore out.
 
I have a Subaru Outback and a Legacy.

Next time a headlight bulb needs replacing, I am selling the car. Much easier than changing the bulb.

How the Japanese have most other engineering right on those things and yet the headlights have been a pain in the ass for twenty years, I have no idea. But they are on all of them. LOL
 
LOL sure. We only have the Subaru for the AWD.

Couldn’t care less about what anybody “sees” me in. Never was into “image culture”.

If it rolls down the road and does the job, and is paid off... it’s fine by me! LOL.

Most of what had the 3800 were Buicks. They’re fine.

The backup Subaru here looks in worse shape than most of them these days and it’s a great little backup other than leaking oil from everywhere because boxer engine... ha.
You're saying you don't like Birkenstocks? :D
 
You're saying you don't like Birkenstocks? :D

lol. The really funny part of owning the new to us one thru a dealer is all the marketing email from Subaru of America trying to sell me “lifestyle” products.

Never seen so much overpriced fake outdoor crap that wouldn’t keep someone warm in a stiff breeze and overpriced luggage racks. LOL

I’ve also contacted no less than three different depts there telling them my name isn’t Karen. They have zero ability to modify anything in their CSR database anywhere apparently. Ha.
 
We've had a 2017 Fusion Platinum for about 2 years. One of the best and trouble free cars we've owned. Great in the snow. Roomy. Descent MPG. Sorry for your troubles.
Now, if you'd like to discuss the BMW 335i X-Drive the Fusion replaced...
 
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Hopefully you paid for the upgrade to LED or HID. The bulb should last longer than the car unless there's a wreck.
On a Subaru? It's the most one eyed car on the road. Mine went through a HID bulb every month. Pretty annoying
 
So, Tuesday a mobile mechanic is going to come out and hopefully fix things up. One observation I did note though - the battery in the car is VERY long. Much longer than a standard battery. Longer than the batteries shown in the videos.
 
yeah, but there are some certainties in automotive. You’ll have to change the oil. You’ll have to add washer fluid. You’ll have to change the breaks. You’ll have to replace a battery. You’ll have to change the lights. All of these should be easily accessible.

why do I have to take the bumper off to replace a headlight in some cars? That’s just stupid.

There were GM cars in the past where you had to pull the engine part way out simply to change certain spark plugs. Others where the "easy" way was to drill a hole in a wheel well to access the plug. Heck, my 1954 Buick Special required an extension and U joint on the socket wrench to pull one of the plugs in its V8 enginer.

Exactly. Shoving an oil filter up in a cavity that forces you to drain oil all over the suspension and steering rack is absurd for a normal maintenance item.

So, you changed the oil in my 1986 Dodge van? Idiots ran the cross over pipe on the exhaust right behind the drain plug so you couldn't simply put a socket on the plug. Then the oil drained out onto the pipe. Then the filter drained on more "stuff" under the engine when you pulled it. I've been going to Jiffy Lube for over 30 years because I got tired of the mess.

So, Tuesday a mobile mechanic is going to come out and hopefully fix things up. One observation I did note though - the battery in the car is VERY long. Much longer than a standard battery. Longer than the batteries shown in the videos.

Kind of like the 3EE battery in my old 1954 Buick? Long and narrow. 2 cells wide and 3 cells long. Haven't seen that size used in decades.
 
I replaced the battery on my daughter's Escape yesterday. It's the same deal as @Sac Arrow 's Fusion, it's up under the cowling. I watched a video to get an idea how to replace it. It's mostly a matter of removing the air filter housing, then popping a few wire mounts from their holes, prying the front of the battery box open, disconnecting the positive terminal, removing the battery hold down, sliding the battery forward, then disconnecting the negative terminal and sliding the battery out. It took me about 40 minute in and 40 minutes out. I suspect a professional mechanic would have taken 15 minutes each way. It's not a terrible job, but it's not as easy as when everything was out in the open.

I can see two reasons why Ford moved the battery to where it is. It gives them more space at the very front of the car for the crumple zone needed for crashworthiness standards, and it moves the weight distribution back a little, which is always a good thing to do for front heavy FWD cars.

As time goes by, the carmakers are using smaller, high strength fasteners, and are packaging things more tightly. Where it used to be if you had a decent set of hand tools you could do nearly everything, now it's getting to where you have to have more and different tools, a standard set of sockets and wrenches won't get it done.
 
I discovered that Subaru doesn't make the maintenance schedule available on their website. It's not in the owners manual - that manual says "see the warranty and maintenance manual", which is not provided in the car nor available online. The warranty is online (separate page) but not the maintenance schedule. "See the dealer" which doesn't want to provide it, but prefers to contact you to tell you when to come in (their Starlink service reminder links back to the dealer). A bunch of other owners have noted the same in online forums.

Fortunately, someone has put the schedule on an online site, so I can copy and print. But it's annoying as heck that it's not available from the manufacturer. Probably on Alldata, that's a subscription but I may well need to do it to get service info as so much in the manuals are "see the dealer".
 
I discovered that Subaru doesn't make the maintenance schedule available on their website. It's not in the owners manual - that manual says "see the warranty and maintenance manual", which is not provided in the car nor available online. The warranty is online (separate page) but not the maintenance schedule. "See the dealer" which doesn't want to provide it, but prefers to contact you to tell you when to come in (their Starlink service reminder links back to the dealer). A bunch of other owners have noted the same in online forums.

Fortunately, someone has put the schedule on an online site, so I can copy and print. But it's annoying as heck that it's not available from the manufacturer. Probably on Alldata, that's a subscription but I may well need to do it to get service info as so much in the manuals are "see the dealer".

I downloaded my maintenance manual. One of the OB forums online had it I think.

If you need it in PDF for a 2010 3.6R Outback let me know, and I can send it over.

It's pages PM1-PM8 for me, which describe the service intervals in detail.
 
I discovered that Subaru doesn't make the maintenance schedule available on their website. It's not in the owners manual - that manual says "see the warranty and maintenance manual", which is not provided in the car nor available online. The warranty is online (separate page) but not the maintenance schedule. "See the dealer" which doesn't want to provide it, but prefers to contact you to tell you when to come in (their Starlink service reminder links back to the dealer). A bunch of other owners have noted the same in online forums.

Fortunately, someone has put the schedule on an online site, so I can copy and print. But it's annoying as heck that it's not available from the manufacturer. Probably on Alldata, that's a subscription but I may well need to do it to get service info as so much in the manuals are "see the dealer".

Weird. Full service schedule is in a separate book that came with the main owners manual on my 2017.

Someone lose the extra little book for yours perhaps?

I can double check it’s separate if you want.

I sat in the car early on and set all of the reminders in the infotainment from the book one evening.
 
1962 Dodge Power Wagon.
Maybe the most politically incorrect vehicle I have driven in years, and proud of it.
Every single part is still available, and you can get to every single part in the vehicle. You can stand in the engine compartment. Heck you can practically stand under the dash. OK that was an exaggeration.
No electronics, except the AM radio. No emissions requirements.
 

If I hadn’t had to sell the ‘04 Yukon for non-vehicle related reasons, I’d probably have driven it another 100K — assuming the trans held up.

Even then, that trans is cheap to replace.
 
Weird. Full service schedule is in a separate book that came with the main owners manual on my 2017.

Someone lose the extra little book for yours perhaps?

I can double check it’s separate if you want.

I sat in the car early on and set all of the reminders in the infotainment from the book one evening.
The extra book was never included - not even on the "delivery checklist". 2017 Forester. Annoying, but I found a resource online.
 
I downloaded my maintenance manual. One of the OB forums online had it I think.

If you need it in PDF for a 2010 3.6R Outback let me know, and I can send it over.

It's pages PM1-PM8 for me, which describe the service intervals in detail.
Thanks for the offer. Mine is 2017 Forester. I'll see if I can find something. SOA urges mechanics to use their online resources (login protected, of course) because "it could change at any time". Of course, they're also the ones that put out a service bulletin to have customers return to a dealer for any accessory addition to the car, including installing leather on the passenger compartment seats - for "safety" of course.
 
The extra book was never included - not even on the "delivery checklist". 2017 Forester. Annoying, but I found a resource online.

Cool. I figured it was something like that since it’s a separate little booklet.

My dealer also wants to push me hard to come to them. Probably use a local Subie shop. But the ECU reset mine needed and reprogramming for high altitude was definitely a dealer only thing. Worked out great also, as a PIREP on that silliness that was disabling all the safety systems whenever the engine would barely misfire. So weak you couldn’t tell it misfired at all but that ECU screamed loud at the other computer to get off the buss.
 
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