[N]Sta-bil or other [NA]

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Dave Taylor
For the mowers, weedeater during the winter.
These engines may be used a little during the winter.

I have always used the red PN22214
Now I see there is PN22275 360 Ethanol treatment (intended to treat EtOH gasoline apparently)

Thoughts?
 
For the mowers, weedeater during the winter.
These engines may be used a little during the winter.

I have always used the red PN22214
Now I see there is PN22275 360 Ethanol treatment (intended to treat EtOH gasoline apparently)

Thoughts?

I use the Marine flavor of STA-BIL in everything I own that burns gasoline. I use 1 oz. / 10 gallons for gas to be consumed in-season and 1 oz / 5 gallons for stored gas. I've used treated gas stored for as long as two years with no problems at all.

I also use it in the car at 1 oz / 10 gallons. During the slow season, the gas at the local stations sometimes gets borderline stale. The STA-BIL doesn't freshen it, but it prevents it from getting any worse.

Rich
 
Sta-Bil + non-ethanol gas in my tractor, etc., seems to work well if an engine will be sitting for a while.
 
Have always used the red Sta-Bil and non-ethanol fuel in my boats, jet skis, and lawn/garden equipment. Most of the lawn garden stuff goes a decade or longer before needing any carb work. I also fog the boat engines to help reduce corrosion while sitting over the winter/spring.
 
Why on earth would anyone put ethanol fuel in their rig? Not good for anything

I keep my corn on the cob.
 
Why on earth would anyone put ethanol fuel in their rig? Not good for anything

I keep my corn on the cob.
Round my parts we keep our corn in a mason jar.

What purported benefits come from the additives such as stabil if using pure gas?
 
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Round my parts we keep our corn in a mason jar.

What purported benefits come from the additives such as stabil if using pure gas?

Unleaded ethanol-free gas also degrades over time, just much more slowly.

If I plan to use ethanol-free gas within three months during which the temperatures will be relatively stable, I usually skip the STA-BIL. Otherwise, it gets it too. Even with rotation, gas may sit in my shed (or in some machines, like the generator) for two years before it's used. The STA-BIL is cheap insurance.

It's also a pretty decent fuel-system cleaner.

Rich
 
I've had no issues with the red stuff and ethanol gasoline. The new stuff has tert-butyl phenols in it (look up isonox-133) as the antioxidant.
 
I've had no issues with the red stuff and ethanol gasoline. The new stuff has tert-butyl phenols in it (look up isonox-133) as the antioxidant.

Last time I checked, the dosage rate on the blue flavor was much lower than for the red flavor, which is the main reason I use it. It takes up less space.

Even the 8 ounce bottle of blue I carry in the car lasts for months at 1 oz per fill-up. I usually buy the 32 oz and refill the 8 oz bottle as needed to save a few bucks.

Rich
 
So what would you all recommend for a truck that is about to go into storage for the next 5 years or so?
 
So what would you all recommend for a truck that is about to go into storage for the next 5 years or so?


-Drain the fuel tank; put in a tiny amount of non-ethanol gas with some Sta-Bil.

-Fog the motor and shut off.

-Pull the plugs and put a drop of oil into each cylinder; replace plugs but don't reconnect the wires yet; turn the engine over briefly to spread the oil; reconnect the wires.

-Drain the remaining fuel from the tank.

-Sell the truck.
 
So what would you all recommend for a truck that is about to go into storage for the next 5 years or so?
FWIW: Never saw one stored for that long but helped on a few that went 2 years. It mainly depends on where/how it's stored (outside/inside; climate controlled, etc.) We found out most vehicle OEMs have long term storage procedures so we got a copy from a local dealer. They're directed toward new vehicles but it worked for these used ones. There's was one high-end car Beemer or Lexus I think that their procedure was rather in-depth complete with SLs and SBs. We also got a storage guide from a local car museum that helped.
 
So what would you all recommend for a truck that is about to go into storage for the next 5 years or so?

Run Sta-Bil in fuel tank and drive until close to empty. Fresh oil change, run engine enough to circulate new oil for a bit. Fog engine, drain fuel tank/fuel lines. Disconnect battery. Put up on jack stands to relieve some of the suspension pressure/avoid flat spotting tires (doesn’t need to be lifted off the ground, just enough to get most of the pressure off of the tires/springs). Fogging the engine should take care of most of the internal cylinder corrosion, but you can pull plugs and spray some oil in there if you like. Throw some moth balls in the interior/engine bay to ward against rodents.
 
This storage information could come in handy. I may just go buy another manual-transmission car and immediately put it into storage for when they stop selling them.

Rich
 
Perfect timing! My Miata goes into winter storage in a few more week and I had been meaning to order some new Sta-Bil. I'd been using the red stuff for the past few years, will try the marine blue this year
 
I've done well with sta-bil, at this point I just add it to the gas cans anytime I bring a full one home so everything is always treated.


Why on earth would anyone put ethanol fuel in their rig? Not good for anything

I keep my corn on the cob.

The only gas you can find around here that isn't 10% ethanol is premium and only at certain gas stations- it can be hard to find.
 
PS ref some say use non-etOH gasoline. Please bring me 500 gallons. We cannot buy it around here.
 
So what would you all recommend for a truck that is about to go into storage for the next 5 years or so?

What year/model of truck?

I would:

1) Drain the tank, add non-ethanol and stabilizer
2) Change the oil, find a good storage oil for your engine
3) run the engine a bit to flush out the old fuel, make sure the oil gets hot enough to clear out any moisture
3) Drain the gas, (if old enough) drain the carb bowl too
4) Cover the car, cover the tires, make sure to keep UV out of the interior.
 
I've done well with sta-bil, at this point I just add it to the gas cans anytime I bring a full one home so everything is always treated.




The only gas you can find around here that isn't 10% ethanol is premium and only at certain gas stations- it can be hard to find.

That sucks, I have to run 90+ in my stuff anyways, but even in the truck I won’t run corn gass, it’s just too expensive in the long run, and is ethics wise questionable at best, ethanol is a scam

 
PS ref some say use non-etOH gasoline. Please bring me 500 gallons. We cannot buy it around here.

Avgas is an alternative, even better if you can find unleaded avgas (Swift fuels)

I would hesitate to run it consistently, out of concern for lead build-up, but avgas in the winter/auto fuel in the summer should keep it clean.
 
What year/model of truck?

I would:

1) Drain the tank, add non-ethanol and stabilizer
2) Change the oil, find a good storage oil for your engine
3) run the engine a bit to flush out the old fuel, make sure the oil gets hot enough to clear out any moisture
3) Drain the gas, (if old enough) drain the carb bowl too
4) Cover the car, cover the tires, make sure to keep UV out of the interior.
1956 Ford Pickup with a 5.0 liter Mustang (Cougar?) engine.

It will be stored indoors so UV shouldn’t be a problem.

Thanks for the suggestion to get the weight off the wheels. I had thought about it then forgot.
 
The more I think about it, you might want to remove the battery, not just disconnect it. It won't be any good 5 years from now anyway, so why leave it there to possibly leak and cause corrosion?
 
The only gas you can find around here that isn't 10% ethanol is premium and only at certain gas stations- it can be hard to find.

It has to be premium in New York, too. I think it's manipulation to reduce the demand for ethanol-free because I can't think of any other reason why Big Brother would give a ****.

Corn-free gas isn't all that hard to find. All Mirabito stations and Stewart's shops that I know of have it. But like everything else around here, it can be a bit of a trip. Because of the distance, I usually buy it 20 gallons at a time.

4-gas-cans.jpg
That rack is a lot higher off the ground than it appears to be. It's an optical illusion. I have a bunch of those cans. All in all, they're the best of the EPA-approved gas cans I've used, and they do keep the gas fresh. They're really tight. Those four were purchased when I installed the generator and needed to bump up my gas inventory.

Whether I wind up with extra gas depends on whether we have a power failure. I keep a lot of gas on hand because I might need it for the generator; but we haven't had a power failure since I installed it (no big surprise there), so this year I had extra gas. I'll also have to siphon the gas out of the generator itself if I don't use it by next summer.

I would just leave the generator empty except that I like to start and run it once a month both as a test and just because it's better for the engine. Also, power failures tend to happen during bad weather; and filling the generator during a hurricane or blizzard is more of a bother than siphoning it out in good weather and burning it in the car, if that becomes necessary.

I get enough of an MPG boost on ethanol-free that if it weren't for the distance, it would almost be a wash price-wise to burn it in the car all the time. I suppose I could just fill the car from cans all the time, but that would be a bother. I do it in the fall, however, if I have to use up some old gas before it gets stale.

If they start pushing the corn content to 15 percent around here, however, I'll be using ethanol-free all the time. I'll just have to plan my travel around it or fill from cans.

Rich
 
It has to be premium in New York, too. I think it's manipulation to reduce the demand for ethanol-free because I can't think of any other reason why Big Brother would give a ****.

Corn-free gas isn't all that hard to find. All Mirabito stations and Stewart's shops that I know of have it. But like everything else around here, it can be a bit of a trip. Because of the distance, I usually buy it 20 gallons at a time.

View attachment 79074
That rack is a lot higher off the ground than it appears to be. It's an optical illusion. I have a bunch of those cans. All in all, they're the best of the EPA-approved gas cans I've used, and they do keep the gas fresh. They're really tight. Those four were purchased when I installed the generator and needed to bump up my gas inventory.

Whether I wind up with extra gas depends on whether we have a power failure. I keep a lot of gas on hand because I might need it for the generator; but we haven't had a power failure since I installed it (no big surprise there), so this year I had extra gas. I'll also have to siphon the gas out of the generator itself if I don't use it by next summer.

I would just leave the generator empty except that I like to start and run it once a month both as a test and just because it's better for the engine. Also, power failures tend to happen during bad weather; and filling the generator during a hurricane or blizzard is more of a bother than siphoning it out in good weather and burning it in the car, if that becomes necessary.

I get enough of an MPG boost on ethanol-free that if it weren't for the distance, it would almost be a wash price-wise to burn it in the car all the time. I suppose I could just fill the car from cans all the time, but that would be a bother. I do it in the fall, however, if I have to use up some old gas before it gets stale.

If they start pushing the corn content to 15 percent around here, however, I'll be using ethanol-free all the time. I'll just have to plan my travel around it or fill from cans.

Rich

Easier to use 15.5G beer kegs and a small pump.
 
. . . That rack is a lot higher off the ground than it appears to be. It's an optical illusion. I have a bunch of those cans. All in all, they're the best of the EPA-approved gas cans I've used, and they do keep the gas fresh. They're really tight. Those four were purchased when I installed the generator and needed to bump up my gas inventory . . .

I use these. MUCH better flow rate, won't spill a drop. A bit pricey, but well worth it when I can fill several gallons quickly without having to hold some obnoxious EPA-spigot. They come in a variety of colors depending on what fuel you want to keep separate.

https://www.amazon.com/VP-Racing-Sq...P-Racing-Square-Utility-Gallons/dp/B00AVQCCCW
 
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1956 Ford Pickup with a 5.0 liter Mustang (Cougar?) engine.

It will be stored indoors so UV shouldn’t be a problem.

Thanks for the suggestion to get the weight off the wheels. I had thought about it then forgot.
Any possibility of rodents chewing stuff up? That can be a pain to fix.
 
Nearest is 150mi; and a place I go to only every 2 months. Thanks for the link.

I was going to send you the same link...didn't remember exactly where you were in W Tx. And that really sucks, I couldn't live w/o E0 91 to 93 octane MoGas...or, at least, I definitely couldn't live as cheaply!. It's 75% of what I burn in the plane and ALL I burn in the equipment.
 
This thread was about mowers etc 2 & 4 stroke.
How would they fare with 100LL.

It’s not so much about running 100LL all the time. The procedure here is to run down the tank of ethanol free fuel, then add the aviation fuel & use it enough to run into the engine & carb. If one ends up with 90% 100LL & 10% non-ethanol fuel, so be it. I don’t mess with Stable & other additives when going the 100LL route.

I got away from ‘running the engine dry’ years ago, never gets completely dry anyway. It’s better to have the aviation fuel in anyway.
 
To echo @sourdough44 above...the Briggs and Stratton factory in Poplar Bluff, Mo test runs all their engines on 100LL. And for good reason. Well...at least they did...not sure if that plant is still open or not.
 
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