DuPuis Family Cobra Build

The current (standard) tank is 15 gallons. I really am not a huge fan of the setup. It's a standard Mustang tank with the in-tank pump and sender. I bought the tank with Walbro 255 LPH pump and fuel level sender for something like $350 with free shipping. A good deal, all brand new.

If you figure that I'll get 12-15 MPG with the Cobra (which is probably about right), 15 gallons is fine but a bit small - I would really prefer 20. Racing will obviously be less, I'd figure single digits. 42 gallons is bigger than I'd want unless I was doing endurance racing.

My gut is that it's something that is really appealing to me and would be a neat unique addition to the car. It's also completely unnecessary for my current expected use of the car. So I'm 50/50 on it.

Reality is it would add a few hundred bucks to the cost of the build by the time I paid for the tank, paid for shipping, bought the new fuel pump and other plumbing, and put it all together, and then sold my old (new) setup to someone else. If he'd told me about this a few months ago before I bought the tank it would've been a no-brainer and I definitely would've done it.

That is a gargantuan tank. If you're planning to go racing with this car, you may want to check with the sanctioning body you'd be racing with, they will likely have a maximum tank size. I don't know too many amateur series where the fire crew is prepared to put out a 40 gallon gasoline fire.

It's really difficult to have a combination street and racing car these days. The roll cage requirements for most series would preclude street use of that car, unless you also want to wear a helmet. It sounds like you are building a nice street car that would be great at track days, but making it into a race car would end its days on the street. If you want to go endurance racing, you'd probably need a modified production car.

There is a NASA class for Factory Five Cobras, but I believe it is only for Challenge cars and is a sprint race series. I'm not sure where the Cobra would fit in any of the current endurance series.

If you do go racing, it is very intense and can take over your life.
 
That is a gargantuan tank. If you're planning to go racing with this car, you may want to check with the sanctioning body you'd be racing with, they will likely have a maximum tank size. I don't know too many amateur series where the fire crew is prepared to put out a 40 gallon gasoline fire.

It's really difficult to have a combination street and racing car these days. The roll cage requirements for most series would preclude street use of that car, unless you also want to wear a helmet. It sounds like you are building a nice street car that would be great at track days, but making it into a race car would end its days on the street. If you want to go endurance racing, you'd probably need a modified production car.

There is a NASA class for Factory Five Cobras, but I believe it is only for Challenge cars and is a sprint race series. I'm not sure where the Cobra would fit in any of the current endurance series.

If you do go racing, it is very intense and can take over your life.

Those are all good points. Like I said it's something I was on the fence about, and I think at this point while I'd like more than 15 gallons, I'm not sure taking apart a completely done and functional setup (that will realistically have plenty of range for my use of the car) makes any sense to replace with a used tank in unknown condition. So I'm just going to leave it alone. If my friend had gotten this deal 6 months ago before I bought the tank then it would've been different, but for now we'll just call it good as-is.

*break break*

This weekend I ended up getting a few minutes in the garage to play around with a few things. First one was getting the timing cover and the water pump bolted up to check for fits and clearances. The fit is fine. You need to measure the clearance between the timing gears and the timing cover to make sure that it's between 0.005" and 0.075". It's interesting to me that there's so much range allowed, but I measured around 0.008" on one and 0.015" on the other (there are two lugs you have to check). So that's all good, and it'll be a hair higher than that when I put it together for good since I'll put some RTV on the gasket.

One thing I need to confirm (and am not sure of) is the proper plumbing for the heater. The water pump has two ports on it for the heater (something that other electric water pumps didn't have - one of the reasons for going with Meizere), but I have to find some diagram that shows exactly how I use those ports, the thermostat bypass, and the two coolant ports on the intake manifold. I can't remember how all of that goes together. But, it looks good, and once I get a few more bolts and some RTV I should be able to get that all together, and then put on the oil pan.

I also put the headers on. One thing that I'm not entirely fond of is that the headers are shiny, but I'm going for all black on the rest of the car. However as they run I'm sure they'll patina/discolor and so that'll be less of an issue. But man, they look good.

One other thing I noticed once putting them on was that the brake line going to the rear brakes does end up getting pretty close (2-3") from the headers at the driver's side footwell firewall. Since I'm going with DOT 5.1 with a >500F boiling point I'm not too worried about it, but I had some firesleeve that I put on anyway for good measure.

What's exciting is how many systems are close to being completed. I need to order the driveshaft (plan to do that today) and once I have that completed I can put fluid in the transmission and that's completely done. Now that the headers are on I can put the clutch cable in and that's done. I need to run the fuel hard lines and that's done, and then I just have to rivet a bunch of panels.

I've decided on the intake that I need to have that machined down so that it properly is square to the heads. I've read a bunch of posts that say the gaskets that I have (which Edelbrock recommends) will seal some gaps, but then they start leaking after a year or two even if everything is square. So I probably will go for some different gaskets that seem to last longer. I need to call the machine shops around and see who can help with that, or else I'll be doing @Zeldman 's cut the intake in two and weld it back together method, which I really would rather not do.

Laurie heads back to work tomorrow, and so my plans for her absence include putting in the driveshaft (assuming it arrives in time), putting fluids in the diff and transmission, running the fuel lines, riveting in panels, and putting on the timing cover, water pump, and oil pan for good assuming the oil pan shows up. We'll see how it all goes.
 
One other thing I forgot to mention - I took out the angle grinder and ground off a bit more of the transmission tailshaft. Now that fits with plenty of clearance so there won't be any bumping.

I also have been doing some looking at the alternator mount locations to try to figure out what makes the most sense. I would prefer not to use an alternator mounting bracket that attaches through the water pump, and would rather use the lug on the block, or maybe one of the ones on the head. So I may have to do some playing around with alternators to find something that fits. I think this whole thing may take a while to do. Since I'm only going to be running an alternator and nothing else belt-driven, it'll need to be mounted low, and I think it'll need to be on the passenger side since the driver's side will have the lower radiator hose.

It would be nice if there was a local alternator shop around (a proper alternator shop, rather than an auto parts store) since I also am going to want a higher amp alternator that can make most of its amperage at idle. Then I could play around a bit to figure out what I needed in terms of a case, and get them to build it up properly. I'll figure that one out.

Also, here are a couple of pictures.

IMG_3973.JPG IMG_3972.JPG
 
This would really help clean up the engine area....

alt11.jpg


....but then you would lose any charging while stopped.
 
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This would really help clean up the engine area....

alt11.jpg


....but then you would lose any charging while stopped.

That looks like more work than would be worthwhile. :)
 
This would really help clean up the engine area....

alt11.jpg


....but then you would lose any charging while stopped.

The lack of charging while stopped wouldn't bother me... I drove generator equipped vehicles until 2012. I'd be more concerned about water and gunk from the wheel getting into the alternator. Also it looks like serviceability would be similar to a Lycoming...You'd have to disconnect the driveshaft to replace the belt.
 
The lack of charging while stopped wouldn't bother me... I drove generator equipped vehicles until 2012. I'd be more concerned about water and gunk from the wheel getting into the alternator. Also it looks like serviceability would be similar to a Lycoming...You'd have to disconnect the driveshaft to replace the belt.

Just like on airplanes, tie up another belt so it can be replaced quickly and easily without removing the prop or driveshaft.

We did this on race cars for years, but you're right, we didn't drive the race cars through mud and water puddles, at least not intentionally..:lol:
 
Called up FFR and got a driveshaft on the way - last one on the shelf for the size I needed. So even coming from the northeast I should get it here in time for the weekend so that I can install it, fill up the transmission with fluid, and call that good with those systems checked off.

I'm also going to need to start ordering gauges soon. I'm going to go with AutoMeter Sport Comp series. Which begs the question: anyone know a place that would do a discount on a full set?
 
One thing I need to confirm (and am not sure of) is the proper plumbing for the heater.

Heater? Why do you need a heater? In my Caterham, if you weren't getting 2nd degree burns on your right calf then the engine/transmission hasn't yet warmed up enough for full throttle fun.
 
Heater? Why do you need a heater? In my Caterham, if you weren't getting 2nd degree burns on your right calf then the engine/transmission hasn't yet warmed up enough for full throttle fun.

Fair point, and after having installed the headers it's pretty clear why people make complaints of their feet getting hot. However I am putting insulation in the foot wells and I want to maximize the year round driveability, hence why it's getting a heater and AC.
 
I like your gauge choice. Those are sweet.

Thanks. I've always been a fan of the Sport Comp gauges, and it's rather nostalgic for me since I ran those in my Jaguar.
 
Thanks. I've always been a fan of the Sport Comp gauges, and it's rather nostalgic for me since I ran those in my Jaguar.

Yep, I had the big tach and shift light and some in the piller.

So listen to this... I'm browsing mustang GTs and my wife comes outta nowhere with, "I'm going to buy a new minivan when the year end sale hits."

I have a few months to talk her into driving my truck, which she has never really liked, and letting me spend 7 to 10k on my midlife crisis mobile instead of financing 30 to 40k on something she will drive maybe 5k miles a year. I'll definitely have to detail the crap out of it to make it look new again before I spring this arrangement on her.
 
@Fiveslide you're going to lose this one. :)

Sorry, but I am with Ted on this one.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Pffffft! I at least had some hope until you guys came along.

Logic and reason don't really work on my wife. It would be logical to drive the nearly new truck we already own. But, she sets her mind to something, she does it, usually ahead of schedule.

I should steal her identity and ruin her credit! She doesn't need good credit, we already have everything we need! Now that's a plan!
 
Pffffft! I at least had some hope until you guys came along.

Logic and reason don't really work on my wife. It would be logical to drive the nearly new truck we already own. But, she sets her mind to something, she does it, usually ahead of schedule.

I should steal her identity and ruin her credit! She doesn't need good credit, we already have everything we need! Now that's a plan!

When you want something done right, you gotta do it yourself!
 
Spent about 45 minutes in the garage this evening. I'm really tired so didn't feel like spending too much time in there, but my new oil pan showed up and I wanted to put the clutch cable in.

So, clutch cable is in. Now 2 out of 3 pedals are fully functioning as intended! Since I don't have the transmission tunnel panel on I was able to look down and see the clutch fork operating as intended. I'm used to hydraulic clutches so the feel of the cable clutch is a bit different, I'm sure it'll be fine once I'm driving, though. I may need to do some more work later to make sure the cable is routed correctly (i.e. away from the exhaust or steering rack) but it's good for now.

I took the new oil pan out of the box as well. It is a very pretty, high quality unit. The oil pan is fully baffled with an integrated windage tray, intended for racing. The recommended capacity of the pan seems a bit varied between 8 and 10.5 quarts - I'll need to confirm. The pan also has the appropriate baffles to make sure that under hard cornering the engine continues to have oil. The pan has great reviews from those who're racing, and it has enough clearance with the frame rails to not worry about hitting the ground. One person installing noted that the starter should go in first as it's impossible to install the starter once the oil pan is on. That's a bit disconcerting if a starter going out would then require the oil pan to get pulled to replace it. I may do some experimenting on that. I wasn't planning on replacing the starter as I have one of the compact lightweight ones from the SN95 cars that works (and again, starters don't fail much), but may change my mind there. Oh, and I will need to move the main bearing cap with the stud for supporting the oil pickup from the #3 position to the #4 position. Easy enough, but needs to be done.

I also can't install the oil pan until the fuel lines are in place. So as much as I don't want to do them, this gives me some motivation to get those done so that I can put the oil pan on.

I got a tracking number from Factory Five for my driveshaft, which according to FedEx will arrive on Friday. So I need to go get some fluids for the differential and the transmission so I can get those filled once the driveshaft arrives and check off that box. I'll pick those up tomorrow or Thursday, along with some "Right Stuff" and a few bolts I need for putting the timing cover on. Need to put on the timing cover and the water pump, and then I can work on the oil pan.

One thing I noticed that's a bit concerning is that the right front wheel had a couple of drops of brake fluid on the inside. I looked and saw some brake fluid pooling around the top of the bleeder screw. Tightened it some and got it to move a bit. I'm not sure how long these calipers sat, but one thing I found when I got them was the bleeder screws were open a bit. I'm hoping there's not some corrosion on the seat that's causing a slight leak. The left (driver's) side also had a drop or two of brake fluid, but not as much as the right side and that bleeder screw couldn't be tightened down any. It's also possible that it's some residual from bleeding the brakes.
 
I would never swap main bearing caps on an already assembled and blueprinted engine, but I’m not familiar with Fords either.
 
Ran some errands before work this morning. Conveniently, my girls' preschool is across the street from an auto parts store, so that'll be my new go-to stop for local auto parts stuff this year, at least things that they'll have. Picked up another quart of differential fluid that I need, picked up a few quarts of Pennzoil Synchromesh for the transmission. Oil filter for the Cobra (going with the short filter for more space, at least at first). Lastly a tube of "The Right Stuff." If you've never used this stuff before, it's fantastic. It'll seal about any

Then ran over and picked up some bolts at Tractor Supply for the timing cover so I can get that installed. One of those "Pick up all the sizes you think you might need so you don't have to make a second trip." Also got a nut for attaching the oil pickup to the stud.

Oh yeah, and some oil and a filter for the once-a-year oil filter change on my truck, need to get that done. But that's not for the Cobra. :)

I figure tonight if I get some time I'm going to work on the timing cover and the water pump.

One thing I'm also figuring is that looking at the projects as sub-systems. That helps keep things feeling more accomplishful... aside from throwing out boxes, which is of course the biggest thing that indicates progress. :)
 
I took the new oil pan out of the box as well. It is a very pretty, high quality unit. The oil pan is fully baffled with an integrated windage tray, intended for racing. The recommended capacity of the pan seems a bit varied between 8 and 10.5 quarts - I'll need to confirm. The pan also has the appropriate baffles to make sure that under hard cornering the engine continues to have oil. The pan has great reviews from those who're racing, and it has enough clearance with the frame rails to not worry about hitting the ground. One person installing noted that the starter should go in first as it's impossible to install the starter once the oil pan is on. That's a bit disconcerting if a starter going out would then require the oil pan to get pulled to replace it. I may do some experimenting on that. I wasn't planning on replacing the starter as I have one of the compact lightweight ones from the SN95 cars that works (and again, starters don't fail much), but may change my mind there. Oh, and I will need to move the main bearing cap with the stud for supporting the oil pickup from the #3 position to the #4 position. Easy enough, but needs to be done.

I also can't install the oil pan until the fuel lines are in place. So as much as I don't want to do them, this gives me some motivation to get those done so that I can put the oil pan on.

I got a tracking number from Factory Five for my driveshaft, which according to FedEx will arrive on Friday. So I need to go get some fluids for the differential and the transmission so I can get those filled once the driveshaft arrives and check off that box. I'll pick those up tomorrow or Thursday, along with some "Right Stuff" and a few bolts I need for putting the timing cover on. Need to put on the timing cover and the water pump, and then I can work on the oil pan.

It appears installing the engine was done prematurely.
 
It appears installing the engine was premature.

Why do you say that? I wouldn't say it at all. I installed it purposely knowing that I could put all those other bits in once it was installed without much difficulty. Putting in the engine and transmission was much harder.
 
There's a lot of work to do besides what you listed, like the ignition system, intake manifold, efi, and so on.

I don't install engines until they're completed. An engine on a stand is easier to work on compared to leaning over a fender for hours.

But that's me. Whatever works for you is more important.
 
There's a lot of work to do besides what you listed, like the ignition system, intake manifold, efi, and so on.

I don't install engines until they're completed. An engine on a stand is easier to work on compared to leaning over a fender for hours.

But that's me. Whatever works for you is more important.

I considered all of that when deciding to install the engine when I did. Certainly the timing cover and oil pan would've been easier to install with it on the stand. The intake manifold would've been as well, but I wasn't sure how it was going to fit with the HVAC box. Answer is tight, and if I had installed the intake I would've missed the fact that one of the studs won't fit as-is. The oil pan, not a big deal to install, the timing cover, not a big deal either. And a lot of other stuff relating to the ignition, etc., stuff that I'm still working on. There are some other design decisions I have to make still (like the alternator) which require the engine in the car to make sure I don't hit anything relating to the car itself.

Plus I wanted to free up the floor space and my friend was available to come help that weekend.

So I agree with you that as a rule, best to put it all together first. In my case, made sense to do what I did.
 
Today was horseback riding lessons for my son, so by the time we were done with everything, it was late. So I didn't get to do much in the garage, but I did top off the differential and also put on the oil filter. Seems a bit silly, but I wanted to be done with the differential. And while the oil filter wasn't really necessary, I don't like having that open, so good to have that on, and it won't get in the way of anything. The short oil filter works just fine location wise and while I normally prefer long oil filters (more media is more better) in this case the convenience wins out.

I also played around a bit with the bolts for the timing cover and figured out which bolts I need where. There's one hole where the long bolt is just a hair too long and the 1/2" shorter bolt is shorter than I'm comfortable with, since I know I may need to do something for an alternator bracket later on. So now I'm in a good position to put on the timing cover and the water pump, maybe that'll be tomorrow night's job.

I'm also thinking about the clutch cable and I may try to do something to shim it a bit. There's definitely more play than I think it should have. They make adjustable cables (which I do not have and was told I didn't need), but I feel like this is way too loose. Maybe some of the Mustang folks can chime in, but it seems like it has about 1/2" of play which seems like a lot. When I push the pedal it has to go down what seems like about 1/4 of the way to take up the slack. But I'm not sure how much slack Ford intended these to have.
 
I’ve driven enough hydraulic clutches that are self adjusting that I had to think about this for a bit.

As I remember, and the logic of the mechanism seems to align: as the clutch wears, that slop is taken up. You need to maintain at least some slop so that the clutch pedal and cable are never taking tension off the clutch. The real question is how much travel you have between bottom of stroke and where you feel the clutch start to feather. And that generally grows a little as the clutch breaks in. And that same break in might take up some of your slop as well.
 
I’ve driven enough hydraulic clutches that are self adjusting that I had to think about this for a bit.

As I remember, and the logic of the mechanism seems to align: as the clutch wears, that slop is taken up. You need to maintain at least some slop so that the clutch pedal and cable are never taking tension off the clutch. The real question is how much travel you have between bottom of stroke and where you feel the clutch start to feather. And that generally grows a little as the clutch breaks in. And that same break in might take up some of your slop as well.

I read this when I woke up (pre-coffee) and it seemed you had it backwards. Now that I've had some coffee, I think you're right, and so now that makes sense - the clutch will get tighter with time. Unless you have a snapped crankshaft in which case the clutch will feel 100% wrong. :)

The clutch does feel good and looks like it's working correctly, too. So I'll see how things are when it drives.
 
I read this when I woke up (pre-coffee) and it seemed you had it backwards. Now that I've had some coffee, I think you're right, and so now that makes sense - the clutch will get tighter with time. Unless you have a snapped crankshaft in which case the clutch will feel 100% wrong. :)

The clutch does feel good and looks like it's working correctly, too. So I'll see how things are when it drives.

They feel pretty odd when one of the clutch plate springs pop out and get jammed between the clutch and the flywheel too. I was sitting at a traffic light in my '84 Honda Civic when something went bang and the car stalled. I had the clutch in so I tried to start it and it did start but lurched forward. With the clutch pressed all the way to the floor HARD and my other foot on the brake it would idle (just). I drove it that way for a couple of days before pulling it and finding the spring had been bouncing around in there and causing all sorts of bad things. :(

Sorry to derail your excellent Cobra thread...
 
They feel pretty odd when one of the clutch plate springs pop out and get jammed between the clutch and the flywheel too. I was sitting at a traffic light in my '84 Honda Civic when something went bang and the car stalled. I had the clutch in so I tried to start it and it did start but lurched forward. With the clutch pressed all the way to the floor HARD and my other foot on the brake it would idle (just). I drove it that way for a couple of days before pulling it and finding the spring had been bouncing around in there and causing all sorts of bad things. :(

Sorry to derail your excellent Cobra thread...

Failures are funny like that. I ran a stock clutch on my 3000GT VR-4 for the first 4 years or so I had it and probably 40k miles or so. The clutch was holding up to the abuse fine and never giving me any trouble. But at one point I did install a JDM transmission, aluminum flywheel, and (of course) a new clutch and throwout bearing while in there.

When I got the whole thing apart there was a piece of metal sitting in the bottom of the bellhousing. That metal had come off of the pressure plate around one of the springs, and there was a crack developing that would've let a spring go before long. Dodged a bullet there.
 
Got off the phone with the machine shop that did my heads and had a good conversation with them. They said the can do this and have done it before, but he did warn me that last time they did this it took a couple tries to get right. The other thing that he told me was that normally so long as the squareness is within 0.020" that the gasket can hold it fine. That seems like a lot of slop to me, but then again these gaskets are fairly thick, will get compressed, and we're only talking about a cooling system that maxes out at 16 PSI, and an intake that maxes out at -14.7 PSI theoretically, but reality is that about 20" of vacuum is as much as is likely to ever be seen.

So, the action item for me is to try putting the intake on with the intake gaskets removed and get an accurate measurement of how far off things are, then decide what to do.

And hopefully my driveshaft arrives tomorrow.
 
I really didn't feel like working on anything tonight, but then I realized I could put the oil pickup on, so I did that. Easy enough - swapped the one bolt that had the stud portion in it on the main caps, torqued down to spec, and then put on the pickup. I then held up the oil pan to see if it had 1/4" clearance minimum (which was the spec from the guy who sold it). I held it up to the block without a gasket and it didn't hit, and the gasket is about 1/4" thick, so there you go, seems good enough.

Tomorrow I need to remember to go by Tractor Supply and get a bit more hardware and then I'll have enough to put on the timing cover and water pump, and then I'll also be in a position to put the oil pan on this weekend... assuming I can actually go ahead and put the fuel lines in... something I have zero interest in doing but that needs to get done.
 
Can you build a plane next? I love my evening catch-up on what you’ve been doing. What am I gonna do when you finish? Maybe start on my IR book learning...
 
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Can you build a plane next? I love my evening catch-up on what you’ve been doing. What am I gonna do when you finish? Maybe start on my IR book learning...

I really appreciate the fact that so many are enjoying the blow-by-blow progress. It's fun to do and fun to report. I also have a couple videos I did but I changed some settings on my phone and now I'm having trouble uploading them to YouTube. I'll figure it out.

FedEx says that my driveshaft is "out for delivery today", so I know what I'm planning on doing on the car tonight! :D

This weekend... we'll see. With the three-day weekend I think my main goal will be getting the fuel lines, timing cover, water pump, and oil pan on, along with checking the intake to see if I think I can put that on as-is or not. If I can, maybe work on that, but we'll see. My son was sick this morning and it's supposed to rain all day tomorrow, so may be a garage day.

If I can get the fuel lines run then I'll have a bunch of aluminum panels I can rivet in place and/or paint.
 
Yesterday I had a last minute transport ahead of hurricane Dorine, so I got nothing done. But today my son helped me with putting in the driveshaft and fill the transmission. I really need to do the fuel lines but also really don’t want to, so I did an oil change on my truck instead. :)

At least now the drivetrain is complete. Just need the engine.

51814FB8-863E-4A40-A5D3-F8C836837490.jpeg 05CFFCA2-99FF-46B8-B7BD-533F32D1AF19.jpeg
 
They feel pretty odd when one of the clutch plate springs pop out and get jammed between the clutch and the flywheel too. I was sitting at a traffic light in my '84 Honda Civic when something went bang and the car stalled. I had the clutch in so I tried to start it and it did start but lurched forward. With the clutch pressed all the way to the floor HARD and my other foot on the brake it would idle (just). I drove it that way for a couple of days before pulling it and finding the spring had been bouncing around in there and causing all sorts of bad things. :(

Sorry to derail your excellent Cobra thread...

I drove a Freightliner from Virginia to SLC, Utah with a clutch that wouldn't disengage. You try to push the pedal and it would nearly break your leg it kicked back so hard. That clutch came out in several pieces.

I used to train drivers, that clutch was abused, but covered under warranty. The mechanic drove it through the parking lot without a trailer and said it felt fine. I told him if he pulled it and it was fine I'd pay the labor, it obviously wasn't. The mechanic had no idea how I drove it that far. I didn't use it, I parked where I could roll away and slip it in gear, I always had shifted without it anyway.
 
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