NA - Car Wax

1RTK1 said:
Does anyone know what kind of wax they use at those primeshine places that you drive through and they squirts all those pretty colors on your car.
Is it worth the extra 2 bucks??
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No. Because they recycle their water, and the wax is already built up from others who paid..........so you get it whether you pay or not. Next time, look at the spray on your windshield.......it will be bubbled up from wax.
 
CC268 said:
Ignorance is bliss. Maybe someone else can convince you otherwise :yes:
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It is not how well you wax your car, and with what product........Because after driven for 15 minutes it will look like hell, no matter what. The key is how often, and that's where the spray ons excel.
 
Timbeck2 said:
Know what C, I don't believe anything you've said in this thread but I invite you to prove me wrong at your convenience. Just bring your superior products and know- how down to Tucson and I'll even let you convince me on my plane.

:)
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Lol, I've done a full detail on my plane twice. Including waxing the belly. Wow that is a lot of work. Plane looks fantastic though!
 
CC268 said:
Lol, I've done a full detail on my plane twice. Including waxing the belly. Wow that is a lot of work. Plane looks fantastic though!
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A car detailer owed a partner some favors. Thing never looked so good. I don't have the steam to do everything I need to do on mine.
 
Check out ceramic coatings like Gyeon Mohs or CarPro CQuartz. It's more expensive than wax but it last for years. Keep in mind that there is a good amount of prep work to be done before you can apply the coating.
 
Those ceramic coatings look nice and last a long time, but they are stupendously expensive, and require a lot of pressure to buff out in my experience. After the amount of rubbing I had to do using CQuartz on a set of car wheels, I'd be worried about using them on aluminum sheet metal.

I do like a good synthetic sealant, with a coat of Collinite wax on top of it. Sealant goes on and off fairly easy, Collinite goes on and off SUPER easy as long as use a thin coat.

There's probably a better newer option, but I've been using Klasse acrylic sealant for years with good results. https://www.autogeek.net/klashiggloss.html
 
slacktide said:
Those ceramic coatings look nice and last a long time, but they are stupendously expensive, and require a lot of pressure to buff out in my experience. After the amount of rubbing I had to do using CQuartz on a set of car wheels, I'd be worried about using them on aluminum sheet metal.

I do like a good synthetic sealant, with a coat of Collinite wax on top of it. Sealant goes on and off fairly easy, Collinite goes on and off SUPER easy as long as use a thin coat.

There's probably a better newer option, but I've been using Klasse acrylic sealant for years with good results. https://www.autogeek.net/klashiggloss.html
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CQuartz is a great product, but application is not easy if you are new to it. I don't ever recommend CQuartz to someone looking to apply it themselves. I think it is a product best suited for shops or professionals who work with the product on a regular basis.

There are a few ceramic coatings out now that are quite easy. McKee's (Autogeek's house brand) is quite good and much easier to apply. If you use too much of a ceramic coating it is a PITA to buff off. The key is a good applicator and just enough spray to cover an area. There are quite a few new ceramic coatings out there now - I'm not totally updated on all the options now.

Agree with Collinite and Klasse. Both good stuff.
 
kgruber said:
It is not how well you wax your car, and with what product........Because after driven for 15 minutes it will look like hell, no matter what. The key is how often, and that's where the spray ons excel.
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I agree, unfortunately, vehicles get dirty quickly! We will have to disagree on spray on detailers and their proper use. If you visit the manufacturer's site for the detailers you have listed you will find they are used for maintenance, not as a wax replacement:

M34 Mirror Glaze Detailer:
"Spray and wipe for quick clean-up of compound polish and residue"
Mirror Glaze 34 is "Step 5" in Meguiar's product line and is used for "maintaining" a coat of wax
"Excellent as clay lubrication"

Meguiar's Quick Clean #52:
Again - "Step 5" in Meguiar's product line and is used for "maintaining" a coat of wax
Directly from Auto Geek, "Meguiars Mirror Glaze #52 Quik Clean Mist & Wipe is intended for maintenance between thorough washes and waxings."

NXT Speed Detailer:
"Meguiar’s NXT Generation Speed Detailer rejuvenates your existing wax, cleans your paint, and amplifies your shine with just a quick spray and wipe. This is the next generation of quick detailers."

Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Detailer:
Again - "Step 5" in Meguiar's product line and is used for "maintaining" a coat of wax
Meguiars Ultimate Quik Detailer is a spray detailer plus a wax booster in one! The Hydrophobic Polymer Technology creates a high level of surface tension that results in a slicker, darker surface that repels water like never before! The slick coating holds up to several car washes and adds another layer of protection over the existing wax or sealant.

Don't take my word for it though, take it from Mike Phillip's himself (the detailing king! - worked for Meguiar's and now Autogeek), "Detail sprays are meant to top off your wax or paint sealant, not stand in for them. You apply a detail spray as a way to extend the life of your protectant."

I'm not trying to be rude, I'm just informing you that MOST spray on products (particularly the ones you have listed) are not meant as a wax replacement. Sure, they might provide some bit of superficial protection, but they are meant to be used to maintain an existing layer of wax.

I always recommend a good coat of wax. Biweekly "maintenance" washes. The spray detailers you have listed come in handy between those biweekly washes.
 
0C74A962-EE12-42A1-97FC-EB482AF6F451.jpeg B2EC5FDE-DC38-4F96-ABB9-2910E542C90B.jpeg This thread gave me the itch to spend Sunday detailing the plane and car. I like my Collinite.
 
Surprised no one has mentioned Rejex yet - a sealant made by the CorrosionX folks. Long lasting, silicone-free (which matters to future paint adhesion), good UV protection (which IMHO is more important than anything), and not difficult to use.
Now if I can just get my plane washed.
 
RalphInCA said:
I have been recently using Maguires NXT Tech Wax 2.0.

I like it, just wondering what you guys think. Works well for me.

http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g12718-nxt-generationreg-tech-waxreg-20/
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I'll have to try that. I really like the Meguiar's stuff. I use their spray wax on the Honda Fit, typically on the horizontal surfaces like the roof and hood, every third wash or so. That way, those little yellow drops of pollen come off the paint very easily. The BMW gets carnauba paste wax.
 
My high mileage Ford truck might soon be on the chopping block... All this talk of wax has me wondering, A.) How far gone is too far gone for [black] paint? (I have areas that have what i can only describe as an oil sheen kind of look on the doors, just below the windows.) And B.) How do I pick a detailer that's worth a crap? I'm certainly not interested in doing it myself, but don't want to pay someone that's only doing what I could do. I want to pay for labor AND expertise.
 
SaltH2OHokie said:
My high mileage Ford truck might soon be on the chopping block... All this talk of wax has me wondering, A.) How far gone is too far gone for [black] paint? (I have areas that have what i can only describe as an oil sheen kind of look on the doors, just below the windows.) And B.) How do I pick a detailer that's worth a crap? I'm certainly not interested in doing it myself, but don't want to pay someone that's only doing what I could do. I want to pay for labor AND expertise.
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Clear coat failure is not salvageable. Anything else you’d be amazed what can be done. You don’t need wax. You need to do clay bar (or nanoskin), good polish (maybe compound if it is in very rough shape) followed by a good wax.

Waxing does not do any paint correction.

77A73ACB-7B59-4899-AC0D-BD1C013B8CAB.jpeg
 
CC268 said:
Clear coat failure is not salvageable. Anything else you’d be amazed what can be done. You don’t need wax. You need to do clay bar (or nanoskin), good polish (maybe compound if it is in very rough shape) followed by a good wax.

Waxing does not do any paint correction.

View attachment 65062
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I agree with everything you said, but I'm going to replace "you need to" with "someone needs to". :D

I don't have peeling clear coat... Just discoloration. Though I reckon that could represent an early stage of failure.

Do body shops do this kind of work?
 
SaltH2OHokie said:
I agree with everything you said, but I'm going to replace "you need to" with "someone needs to". :D

I don't have peeling clear coat... Just discoloration. Though I reckon that could represent an early stage of failure.

Do body shops do this kind of work?
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Don’t go to a body shop. Body shops are notorious for horrible practices when it comes to polishing/compounding paint.

I don’t know where you live but a quick google search for car detailing or mobile car detailing should get you some hits. Find an independently/privately owned detailing business. Don’t go to one of these roadside car washes that do a detail for $50-$100.
 
SaltH2OHokie said:
How do I pick a detailer that's worth a crap? I'm certainly not interested in doing it myself, but don't want to pay someone that's only doing what I could do. I want to pay for labor AND expertise.
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Ask on the Autogeek.net detailing forums for a reccomendation for an independant detailer in your area.
 
455 Bravo Uniform said:
So what is Slick Mist?
And what is a sealant?
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I have not used Slick Mist, but the website calls it a “paint gloss intensifer” which make me think it is similar to Meguiars #7, AKA “Queen for a Day”. A last-step product applied to an already detailed showcar to add an extra intense gloss and depth, but it does not last very long.

A sealant is typically a synthetic product to apply a long-lasting gloss and protect paint for 6 months or more. They may not have the depth of shine as a natural product but last a lot longer, some over a year, like Cquartz ceramic sealant. I use Klasse acrylic sealant, does not last as long as ceramic sealants but is a lot easier to apply. You can use a natural wax as a topcoat to both add depth and prolong the life of the sealant.
 
I went to one detailer once when i was getting read to sell a car. I couldn't believe what I got back. Looked brand new. Possibly the best $100 I ever spent. I wish that guy was still there, I'd use his services again in a heartbeat.
 
Scott@KTYR said:
Looks great.
Today I just bought some Collinite on Amazon.
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A few tips, at room temperature or on cool days it is kind of thick and clumpy. Set it the hot sun or in some hot water so it is liquid. Leave as little as possible on the surface after applying, a little goes a long way, and excess is just wasted and more work to remove. I like using microfiber cloth to remove it, the cheap ones from Costco are great.
 
slacktide said:
A few tips, at room temperature or on cool days it is kind of thick and clumpy. Set it the hot sun or in some hot water so it is liquid. Leave as little as possible on the surface after applying, a little goes a long way, and excess is just wasted and more work to remove. I like using microfiber cloth to remove it, the cheap ones from Costco are great.
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Thanks
 
slacktide said:
A few tips, at room temperature or on cool days it is kind of thick and clumpy. Set it the hot sun or in some hot water so it is liquid. Leave as little as possible on the surface after applying, a little goes a long way, and excess is just wasted and more work to remove. I like using microfiber cloth to remove it, the cheap ones from Costco are great.
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Nice to see someone else around here who knows a little about detailing lol
 
CC268 said:
Nice to see someone else around here who knows a little about detailing lol
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It's a pretty cheap side-hobby, and the results are satisfying. You can buy all the tools and supplies you need to get professional results for 200 bucks or so. I do get a kick out of the guys on the detailing forums who buy hundred-dollar waxes that come in a velvet lined mahogany boxs, though. The same type of guys on audio forums that buy $200 electrical outlets and thousand dollar RCA cables.

But for the love of god, don't waste your money on a buffer that looks like this. Completely worthless.

40e0ac17-de37-42c6-b14b-ca7f4df69b68_1.abf2db8f7e00156d915c26d54017e382.jpeg
 
slacktide said:
It's a pretty cheap side-hobby, and the results are satisfying. You can buy all the tools and supplies you need to get professional results for 200 bucks or so. I do get a kick out of the guys on the detailing forums who buy hundred-dollar waxes that come in a velvet lined mahogany boxs, though. The same type of guys on audio forums that buy $200 electrical outlets and thousand dollar RCA cables.

But for the love of god, don't waste your money on a buffer that looks like this. Completely worthless.
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Yea I don't do nearly as much detailing as I used to - just don't have the time. Spent many hours over on the AG forums and read a few of Mike Phillip's detailing books. When I first got into detailing I spent a fortune on all the product (much of it I still haven't used). Best thing I ever purchased was a Griots GG6 Random Orbital and a large assortment of Lake Country backing plates and foam pads. I pity anyone who decides to polish by hand lol. Amazing what you can do with the right tools. Even waxing with it is a pleasure. When I was detailing a decent amount I even thought about purchasing a Flex 3401 (forced rotation polisher).
 
CC268 said:
Yea I don't do nearly as much detailing as I used to - just don't have the time. Spent many hours over on the AG forums and read a few of Mike Phillip's detailing books. When I first got into detailing I spent a fortune on all the product (much of it I still haven't used). Best thing I ever purchased was a Griots GG6 Random Orbital and a large assortment of Lake Country backing plates and foam pads. I pity anyone who decides to polish by hand lol. Amazing what you can do with the right tools. Even waxing with it is a pleasure. When I was detailing a decent amount I even thought about purchasing a Flex 3401 (forced rotation polisher).
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It sounds like we have similar detailing backgrounds. I spent way too much time reading the AG forums and ended up purchasing a Griots GG6 polisher also. When my friend and I started doing a bit more detailing side work for family and friends I ended up getting a Rupes Bigfoot 15, which is a great product. It has much less vibration and "walking" of the buffer during polishing or waxing.
 
mvanbv00 said:
It sounds like we have similar detailing backgrounds. I spent way too much time reading the AG forums and ended up purchasing a Griots GG6 polisher also. When my friend and I started doing a bit more detailing side work for family and friends I ended up getting a Rupes Bigfoot 15, which is a great product. It has much less vibration and "walking" of the buffer during polishing or waxing.
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Ahh a Rupes...the exotic sportscar of polishers haha. Very nice.
 
CC268 said:
Ahh a Rupes...the exotic sportscar of polishers haha. Very nice.
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My hands and arms thanked me for upgrading to the Rupes after spending many hours polishing with it. The difference in vibration was significant to me.
 
mvanbv00 said:
My hands and arms thanked me for upgrading to the Rupes after spending many hours polishing with it. The difference in vibration was significant to me.
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Yea I don't doubt it. The Rupes isn't cheap - I would expect it to be great!
 
I started with a Porter-Cable 7424XP, and upgraded to the Griots. MUCH better performing machine. I'm sure the professional models are even better. Converted the PC back to a random-orbit sander like it was intended to be.
 
I've been using Meguiar's G6207 Black Wax lately, and Race Glaze on the plastic. They seem to work well enough.

clean1a.jpg


clean2a.jpg


clean3a.jpg


They don't last very long, but I rather enjoy doing it, so I don't really mind.

Rich
 
SoonerAviator said:
I don't think I'd use that stuff anymore if I were you. It turned your car into a Kia Sol. :)
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Those silly things are actually kinda impressive.

You’d think that back seat would be horrid in something that small, but it’s enormous. Almost as much leg room as my Yukon in the back of that thing.

And you can still order it (I believe) with a stick and completely stripped of features including not even having a keyfob to unlock it.

Yeah that stripped. It makes it into an impressively inexpensive car.

Totally gutless but the stick helps with that, and nothing in it to break. And big enough to actually haul four people in or a crap ton of stuff and one driver.

And they’re actually holding up decently in long term use and no major repetitive faults in the engineering.

If you understand the true nature of wants vs needs, that thing can truly cover most people’s actual needs.

It’s a roller skate with a motor, but for most city driving it’s really a screaming deal if you get the stripped one.

They also have an impressive warranty. Because the price is so low there’s not much to depreciate either. Thrash it for 100,000 miles, sell it, repeat.
 
denverpilot said:
Those silly things are actually kinda impressive . . .
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Lol my comment was mostly tongue-in-cheek. I don't harbor any bad feelings about the Kia Sol or anyone else's car choice. It wouldn't likely ever be a vehicle I would consider due to it not fitting my needs, but it certainly has a place in the market and they seem to sell well-enough given the number I see on the roads.
 
SoonerAviator said:
Lol my comment was mostly tongue-in-cheek. I don't harbor any bad feelings about the Kia Sol or anyone else's car choice. It wouldn't likely ever be a vehicle I would consider due to it not fitting my needs, but it certainly has a place in the market and they seem to sell well-enough given the number I see on the roads.
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Yeah I want saying you were being mean or anything. It’s just a fascinating little car. I know a couple of people who drive them.

I could run something like that out here only seasonally, and I suspect the washboards would be incredibly unkind to it. There’s a lot of cars that would fit the bill as seasonal summer only cars for my commute, that would just utterly fall apart by 100,000 miles due to the near daily pounding.

I know it’s a total niche market and no manufacturer or test/review place would ever bother making something to specifically handle bad roads or REALLY test cars on them, but I’d love know with absolute surety which models would honor a warranty repair on all the interior squeaks, cracks, and failures of hardware that come from a good old daily bad dirt road pounding.

So far every vehicle we own has developed a squeak, crack, or component failure due to it. Nothing seems we’ll buiot enough not to.

Motorweek has their test track that has some “cute” speed bumps in it. They’re just ... adorable. Ha. :)
 
Since the thread is about wax, I’d love to know what wax would best protect when the vehicle is covered in dust 80% of the year, and mud the other 20% too. Hahaha.

Washing cars out here is definitely a pointless exercise in vanity or you finally got so much clay mud stuffed into a wheel or rim that the tire is out of balance and you need a pressure washer to blast the dried mud chunk out. :)
 
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