Breaking in one new cylinder

dmspilot

dmspilot

Final Approach
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If one cylinder is replaced in 182, what is recommended for break-in? Should break-in oil (i.e. straight mineral) be used or is it okay to use the ashless dispersant that is normally used (W100 in this case)?

Thanks
 
dmspilot said:
If one cylinder is replaced in 182, what is recommended for break-in? Should break-in oil (i.e. straight mineral) be used or is it okay to use the ashless dispersant that is normally used (W100 in this case)?

Thanks
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If you were running Phillips 20W50 there will be no need to change anything.
If you are running any anti-wear additives, stop until the cylinder has about 50 hours on it.
 
dmspilot said:
If one cylinder is replaced in 182, what is recommended for break-in? Should break-in oil (i.e. straight mineral) be used or is it okay to use the ashless dispersant that is normally used (W100 in this case)?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Any oil that has a anti-wear additive like Aeroshell, should not be used in any engine that has a friction clutch like your 0-470/0-520 does.
Lycoming and TCM have service instructions about that.
When your starter clutch get too slippery, it will not turn your engine over, it will simply slip.
 
dmspilot said:
If one cylinder is replaced in 182, what is recommended for break-in? Should break-in oil (i.e. straight mineral) be used or is it okay to use the ashless dispersant that is normally used (W100 in this case)?

Thanks
Click to expand...
We've always used straight mineral oil for at least two oil changes (at 10 hours after, and at 25 hours after first change) whenever a new cylinder went on. The straight oil allows the rings to polish the inside of the cylinder and essentially form a better seal with the cylinder wall.
 
Follow normal break-in procedure. I use Phillips XC myself. Stay away from additives and additized oils.

I think the issue with starter clutches is with semi synthetics, not the wear additives like are in Aeroshell's straight weight Plus oils. Those work fine after the engine is broken in.
 
Thank you. Unfortunately the guidance from the mechanic that installed the cylinder was lacking. Will have to get ahold of the logbooks to even figure out what oil was used (not my plane).
 
Brad Z said:
The straight oil allows the rings to polish the inside of the cylinder and essentially form a better seal with the cylinder wall.
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Nope that's not what it does, It simply has no additives to keep heavy particulate matter in suspension, thus they drop out in the sump, and no anti-wear additives to stop wear, So it simply allows normal wear.
You statement is an old wives tale, left over from when no one had filters.
Any oil that has no anti-wear additives will work as well or better than straight weight mineral oil, and will carry the particulate matter to the filter.

Phillips 20W50 from day one to TBO.
 
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Exxon Elite is semi-syn.

Aeroshell "Plus" oils contain the anti scuff, so no need to add Lycoming's additive, assuming you have a motor that needs anti scuff.

What does any of that have to do with starter clutches???
 
Tom-D said:
Nope that's not what it does, It simply has no additives to keep heavy particulate matter in suspension, thus they drop out in the sump, and no anti-wear additives to stop wear, So it simply allows normal wear.
You statement is an old wives tale, left over from when no one had filters.
Any oil that has no anti-wear additives will work as well or better than straight weight mineral oil, and will carry the particulate matter to the filter.

Phillips 20W50 from day one to TBO.
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so by using oil without anti-wear additives, you're increasing wear. If the purpose of increasing wear is not to make a better seal between the cylinder wall and rings, what is it?
 
Brad Z said:
so by using oil without anti-wear additives, you're increasing wear. If the purpose of increasing wear is not to make a better seal between the cylinder wall and rings, what is it?
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I'd not say you are increasing wear, just allowing normal wear to occur, Anti-wear additives prevent that.
 
When I had to replace one cylinder my mechanic told me to run engine at 75% power or better using Phillips XC 20W50 for 10 hours or until oil consumption stabilized. Don’t add any additives. Worked great and oil stabilized well before 10 hours


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Perezhr said:
When I had to replace one cylinder my mechanic told me to run engine at 75% power or better using Phillips XC 20W50 for 10 hours or until oil consumption stabilized. Don’t add any additives. Worked great and oil stabilized well before 10 hours
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I'll bet you never noticed any deviation in your oil consumption. 50 hours just ain't enough time time to tell.
 
Perezhr said:
When I had to replace one cylinder my mechanic told me to run engine at 75% power or better using Phillips XC 20W50 for 10 hours or until oil consumption stabilized. Don’t add any additives. Worked great and oil stabilized well before 10 hours
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My partner got stranded when this happened:

https://www.pilotsofamerica.com/community/threads/is-it-time.107314/page-2#post-2413896

We had a new piston with new rings put in, and he flew it like he normally would using Phillips 20W50. It was a 5 hr flight home, and it's been on 4-5 2.5hr flights as well, and it's running like a top and oil consumption is normal.
 
Very typical.

The oddity is, that broken ring didn't ruin a cylinder.
 
Tom-D said:
The oddity is, that broken ring didn't ruin a cylinder.
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Yeah, I asked my partner three times about that, but he insisted the A&P said the cylinder looked fine. She's running well, so.....keep flying and keep an eye on things.
 
Bill Jennings said:
Yeah, I asked my partner three times about that, but he insisted the A&P said the cylinder looked fine. She's running well, so.....keep flying and keep an eye on things.
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I'd venture a guess that ring broke when it snapped open as they pulled the cylinder off, they will do that some times.
 
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