Oil filler door repair

Alright, a certified weld is one that's passed a stringent quality control process, including NDT evaluation.

Weld spec certification and actually certifying a weld are related but different. The weld is certified to conform to the spec. Spec certification is a long drawn out process to approve the weld process.

A certified welder, according to our GMM is one that's passed a required amount of training and is certified.
 
For example: The DC/MD-10 nose cowl weld repair specification can be found in DPS 10.225 (Douglas Process Standard), now Boeing (3393RP, Google that). The specification is the certified process that must be adhered to for the weld to be approved, or certified.
 
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GlennAB1 said:
For example: The DC/MD-10 nose cowl weld repair specification can be found in DPS 10.225 (Douglas Process Standard), now Boeing (3393RP, Google that). The specification is the certified process that must be adhered to for the weld to be approved, or certified.
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....what about for soldering? :D
 
Oh, my. This is fun :)

Can you friction stir solder using a zink?
 
Tom-D said:
to answer post #112
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Tom-

I'm still not making the connection. Some of the aluminum solders melt at a temperature (427 °C), above that of zinc (420 °C), and some melt below that temperature.
 
Cap'n Jack said:
Tom-

I'm still not making the connection.
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Don't let ruin your day. :) The whole purpose of the transgression from the topic was to correct the belief that aluminum can't be soldered. The only time that would be a proper repair is on soft aluminum so as long as the solder melts before the melt temp of aluminum your good. but back to subject, the best repair the OP has is to get a used door from salvage and simply swap them out. the latch alone will cost more than a used door, plus the rivet job to put it in.
 
and the solder job is not an appropriate repair for the OP (oil door fix)....hello, is this thingy on Tom? :D
 
Tom-D said:
Don't let ruin your day. :) The whole purpose of the transgression from the topic was to correct the belief that aluminum can't be soldered. The only time that would be a proper repair is on soft aluminum so as long as the solder melts before the melt temp of aluminum your good. but back to subject, the best repair the OP has is to get a used door from salvage and simply swap them out. the latch alone will cost more than a used door, plus the rivet job to put it in.
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I do like to learn things. The OP question has been answered, I agree. But there is no reason not to answer my question and explain why the presence of zinc affects the melting point as you seem to imply. The other elements would seem to play a greater role in changing the melting point of the solder, in my opinion, but you singled out zinc. I'm curious why you feel this element is so important in this regard and so perhaps learn something.
 
Cap'n Jack said:
I do like to learn things. The OP question has been answered, I agree. But there is no reason not to answer my question and explain why the presence of zinc affects the melting point as you seem to imply. The other elements would seem to play a greater role in changing the melting point of the solder, in my opinion, but you singled out zinc. I'm curious why you feel this element is so important in this regard and so perhaps learn something.
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I singled out Zinc because it seems to be the major ingredient in most of these alloys, and the melting point varies with the other elements in the alloys by % of each metals used.
 
Fight fight fight fight! UFC Pilots of America edition.
 
I do not have the time to read the whole post. I had the spring break on my oil door on a Commander 112. Same latch system with four rivets.

I purchased two new ones for 15.00 each and use just the spring. Filed off the head on the pin holding the two halves together, removed pin, replace with a cotter
key and new spring.. nice paint on the outside of the oil door so did not remove rivets.

Ken Andrew
N182J
 
ksandrew said:
I do not have the time to read the whole post. I had the spring break on my oil door on a Commander 112. Same latch system with four rivets.

I purchased two new ones for 15.00 each and use just the spring. Filed off the head on the pin holding the two halves together, removed pin, replace with a cotter
key and new spring.. nice paint on the outside of the oil door so did not remove rivets.

Ken Andrew
N182J
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Sounds like more work than 4 rivets
 
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