Leather couch repair

Kritchlow

Kritchlow

Final Approach
Joined
Dec 2, 2014
Messages
7,708
Display Name
Display name:
Kritchlow
Okay, we just bought an expensive leather couch. We also have a cat.. Front declawed, back not. Obviously there's no scratching post action here, but the cat is super active. She runs and jumps, and at times her back claws scratch the couch.

Does anyone have thoughts or opinions on the leather repair kits sold on line? Do they really work? Do you recommend bringing in a pro every now and then, or will the home repair stuff work?

Serious question, please no cat jokes.

Thanks
 
For rips and tears, plain old Elmer's glue, backed by another piece of leather works pretty well. We have leather couches and punctures from dog toenails were repaired that way, and you can hardly tell. For scratches, dunno. Ours are brown and some saddle soap lets them blend in.
 
Most cats don't particularly like laying on leather. Put a small blanket square, or a small cat bed on the couch and teach the cat to lay there.

Keep the cat's claws trimmed so that they are not so sharp.

Ask your vet about a product called "soft paws". They are little nail covers for the cat's claws. They can show you how to apply them, but first you trim the nail, wipe the nail with a cloth with a little alcohol to clean it off, apply a special tissue glue to the soft paw and push onto the nail. They last about 4 to 6 weeks, so after having the vet (tech) do it once or twice, you would want to do it yourself until the cat is trained to get on his blanket.
 
Dunno about the leather repair, but I second the small throws over the back of the couch. We have a bunch a cats (five) and they like laying on the throws.
 
Liquid leather in a can for those unsightly leather tears for out of control *******.
 
Personally, I'd find a good upholstry shop and have the damaged areas replaced.

As for the cat......
 
The simplest and cheapest solution is .22 caliber!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
 
JOhnH said:
Buy him his own couch.

As an aside, leather furniture is one of the leading causes of death in cats. :sad:
Click to expand...

Timely post....

I adopted a cat ( Cleco),, From a local shelter... Great kitty, but her nails are killing all my furniture..... Don't even mention my waterbed...:hairraise:..

My problem is I signed a document ( like an idiot) to NEVER declaw the cat...

I won't enter into a contract like that again...:no:
 
Last edited:
JOhnH said:
How is that going to repair leather? The couch is already dead.
Click to expand...

Perhaps you could tan and color the cats hide to replace the damaged leather couch panel :dunno:
 
N801BH said:
Timely post....

I adopted a cat ( Cleco),, From a local shelter... Great kitty, but her nails are killing all my furniture..... Don't even mention my waterbed...:hairraise:..

My problem is I signed a document ( like and idiot) to NEVER declaw the cat...

I won't enter into a contract like that again...:no:
Click to expand...
I understand about the declawing agreement... I do believe in declawing.

Regardless, you are awesome for taking a rescue kitty. Hats off....
 
N801BH said:
Timely post....

I adopted a cat ( Cleco),, From a local shelter... Great kitty, but her nails are killing all my furniture..... Don't even mention my waterbed...:hairraise:..

My problem is I signed a document ( like and idiot) to NEVER declaw the cat...

I won't enter into a contract like that again...:no:
Click to expand...

I think I did that once too, but since they never just pop in to check on the cat...
 
JCranford said:
I think I did that once too, but since they never just pop in to check on the cat...
Click to expand...
That's true. Many people that have signed those contracts still wind up having their cat declawed.

Keeping your cat's nails trimmed will eliminate about 80% of the damage. Training them to use a scratching post solves another 10-15%.

I am not recommending this, but if you (Ben) decide to go that route, let me ask you to consider a few things:

NOTE; Don't even consider declawing if the cat likes to go outside. Even if you try to keep him in, he will eventually escape. Without claws, they cannot defend themselves, and they cannot climb trees to escape predators.

Now:
1. Please don't go t the cheapest place to get it done. Declaw surgery can be cruel and painful, but it doesn't have to be. If you are willing to pay for proper procedures, and if it is done correctly there is very little pain and complete recovery is very possible.

2. Find a hospital that uses a laser. Many places still us steel blades and they are convinced that is just as good. No it's not.

3. If the hospital offers you "optional" pain medication, find another place. They are only interested in being able to get you to choose them based on price. Pain medication is expensive, but extremely important. It shouldn't be optional.

4. Make sure they intubate the cat for anesthesia. Injectable sedation is not sufficient.

5. After the surgery, do not use regular litter for a couple of weeks. It is abrasive and causes infections. A good vet will recommend alternative litters for post surgery (eg: "Yesterday's News"). It is a very absorbent pelleted material made from recycled news papers.

Remember, after declawing, you have to commit yourself to keeping the cat indoors for the rest of it's life.
 
Last edited:
JOhnH said:
That's true. Many people that have signed those contracts still wind up having their cat declawed.

Keeping your cat's nails trimmed will eliminate about 80% of the damage. Training them to use a scratching post solves another 10-15%.

I am not recommending this, but if you (Ben) decide to go that route, let me ask you to consider a few things:

NOTE; Don't even consider declawing if the cat likes to go outside. Even if you try to keep him in, he will eventually escape. Without claws, they cannot defend themselves, and they cannot climb trees to escape predators.

Now:
1. Please don't go t the cheapest place to get it done. Declaw surgery can be cruel and painful, but it doesn't have to be. If you are willing to pay for proper procedures, and if it is done correctly there is very little pain and complete recovery is very possible.

2. Find a hospital that uses a laser. Many places still us steel blades and they are convinced that is just as good. No it's not.

3. If the hospital offers you "optional" pain medication, find another place. They are only interested in being able to get you to choose them based on price. Pain medication is expensive, but extremely important. It shouldn't be optional.

4. Make sure they intubate the cat for anesthesia. Injectable sedation is not sufficient.

5. After the surgery, do not use regular litter for a couple of weeks. It is abrasive and causes infections. A good vet will recommend alternative litters for post surgery (eg: "Yesterday's News"). It is a very absorbent pelleted material made from recycled news papers.

Remember, after declawing, you have to commit yourself to keeping the cat indoors for the rest of it's life.
Click to expand...

Thanks John for you thoughts and concerns.....

My first cat lived 22 years..

Second one lasted 6 months from the adoption date..

We had St Bernards and the cat figured out the dog door... "Semi mud flap"..

And got eaten by a Coyote in less then 5 minutes being outside..

The Ex let the next cat out to play and a Wolf picked it off almost instantly...

Third cat actually got carried off by a HUGE Owl when the EX didn't learn her lesson from the second cat...:mad2::mad2::mad2:

This cat does NOT go outside unless I am watching her every minute.... And I do have my Colt .45 in my hand the whole time to stop ANY predators....:yes:..
 
N801BH said:
Timely post....

I adopted a cat ( Cleco),, From a local shelter... Great kitty, but her nails are killing all my furniture..... Don't even mention my waterbed...:hairraise:..

My problem is I signed a document ( like an idiot) to NEVER declaw the cat...

I won't enter into a contract like that again...:no:
Click to expand...

Feeling sorry for you. :dunno::dunno:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top