Engine monitor and fuel flow install

frtrkap

frtrkap

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frtrkap
Hi,

I am currently planning the install of an EDM-700 and fuel flow on my PA-28-140. I am a mechanic and will be working with another mechanic as well, so don't worry. I just wanted to see how you guys did the fuel flow transducer install, as I've seen multiple methods. If you have pictures as well, it would be appreciated.

Also, since I'm still planning all that, any routing pictures for the sensor wiring and such would be appreciated as well, as I've once again seen different ways of doing things.

Thank you all, stay safe, stay healthy!
 
This JPI video is a good start. I haven't installed one of the JPI products, but hopefully tips posted by other mechanics will help you perform a proper and trouble free installation.

The brief fuel flow transducer instructions start at 6:20 in the video, and provide one extremely important bit of information. Don't use Teflon tape or Teflon products on the NPT or flared connection threads. EZ Turn is recommended for use on tapered pipe threads, and sealant of any type should not be used on flared connections.

Apply the EZ Turn to the second or third thread of the fitting, taking care not to get it on the end of the fitting. This will prevent contamination of the fuel system.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/ezturnlube.php

Good tools and technique are critical for a trouble free installation. The vibration inherent in the environment of electrical devices on an airplane engine dictate care and precision to attain the desired results.

My recommendation is that cheap wire connector crimping tools from AutoZone and the like should be avoided. A ratchet type tool with a set of interchangeable jaws for different types of connectors is a good investment.

This tool is $75, but will produce secure connections and last a lifetime.

https://wirefyshop.com/collections/wire-crimping-tools/products/crimping-tool-set-5-pcs
 
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Thank you for the info! I probably missed that video I will go have a look.

Cheers
 
I should add that on any installation which requires various sizes and colors of wire and crimp type ring, spade, or fork type connectors, I always use Ancor products. Their connectors have adhesive lined heat shrink insulation that provide a leakproof seal and years of trouble free service, and the primary wire is designed specifically for environments with large temperature variations, vibration, and contaminants.

Ancor Marine nylon insulated ring terminals with adhesive heat shrink are made from premium materials. The cross linked polyolefin tubing insulation is much stronger than PVC tubing and will not burn like PVC. Heat activated adhesive lining provides impervious seal to salt water, oil, acids, and sunlight as well as providing strain relief. Highest shrink ratio - shrinks to 1/3 original size. Shrinks at 257° F/125° C. Operating temperature range of -40° C to 110° C.

Product Features:
  • Ancor's Marine Grade terminals differ from automotive terminals by being designed for harsh marine environment
  • Nylon insulators are easy to crimp and will not split
  • Barrels are designed to tightly grip the wire with the least effort
  • Tinned copper gives the least electrical resistance but the most corrosion protection
  • UL 486C
  • Nylon Insulated with Insulation Grip
  • Double Crimp, Funnel Entry
https://www.wholesalemarine.com/ancor-marine-nylon-insulated-ring-terminals-heat-shrink.html

Anchor Marine Grade primary wire is IMO the best product available for power circuits on boat, aircraft, and auto applications. It has finer stranding than automotive grade wire, is tinned for corrosion resistance, and has 105°C insulation. It's available in sixteen colors, and sizes from 22 AWG to 6 AWG.

ANCOR Marine Grade™ wire is manufactured from tinned copper stranding for maximum protection against corrosion and electrolysis. Ultra flexible (Type 3) stranding resists fatigue due to vibration and flexing. ANCOR’s proprietary premium vinyl insulation stays flexible even in extreme cold and resists salt water, battery acid, oil, gasoline and ultra-violet radiation. Exclusive insulation is rated at 600 volts, 105° C dry and 75° C wet, and is resistant to heat and abrasion. Exceeds all UL 1426, US Coast Guard Charterboat (CFR Title 46) and ABYC standards.

https://www.wholesalemarine.com/anc...nned-primary-marine-wire-assorted-colors.html

Using Ancor wiring materials produces bulletproof installations that last for years without issues. You can really up the reliability of electrical circuits with their products.
 
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The JPI fuel flow sensor (and maybe others as well) need to be mounted horizontally, and secured so to get accurate readings. Mine is mounted on the firewall. You just can’t cut the fuel hose and stick in. Also ALL the sensor wires need to be separated from the ignition wires, plan accordingly. The high voltage ignition wires will cause interference with the low voltage sensor wires.
 
Yep, you need to pay attention to what JPI tells you about the mounting and routing of the fuel lines.
 
Thanks! I still can't find the JPI video regarding the install, can anyone point me in the right direction?
 
Which video would it be? I've looked at almost all of them.
 
Hereya go. I had to look in my YouTube history to find it. Turns out it's not a JPI produced video.

 
Thanks a lot!


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
 
frtrkap said:
Hi,
I don't know if the mechanical and electric fuel pump lines meet at the carburetor, like on the fixed gear Cardinal, or before... but you want to COMBINE the two lines before the transducer... otherwise, the electric pumps leak back a little bit, maybe 2 GPH or so, and you'll have false fuel flow indications.

Otherwise, 10 hose diameters straight before the transducer, 4 hose diameters straight afterwards, and the entire line sloping upward toward the carb to avoid trapping vapor bubbles in the transducer that will cause false readings.
Click to expand...
 
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