Cessna 150 Steering

Kiowa

Filing Flight Plan
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May 17, 2018
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Kiowa
Okay, let me confess to be a new airplane owner and a relatively new pilot; so forgive me if I showcase a lack of protocol or just plain ignorance. I am really struggling to learn more about why my 150 recently just stopped turning when I pressed on the pedals. I pulled it out of the hangar and began my taxi when I realized that I could only use brakes to turn. Both pedals in either direction just went to the floor. Is it the steering tubes? Both? Is there some sort of spring or bungee inline with the control cables? I see nothing of the sort when I look at the service manual, but really need some guidance.
 
Did the rudder move?
 
Look for the tiller on the left side like the Gulfstream 4. Just kidding. 150s shrank some number of years ago so I can't fit in them anymore.

Did you try and use the rudder under power?
 
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Sounds to me like the steering collar is hitting the centering lock like it's designed to, when the strut is fully extended. If the nose strut is overserviced a bit they tend to do that. Simple fix, let a tiny bit of pressure out of the strut or get used to slamming on the brakes to compress it enough to steer.

A whole lot of Cessna aircraft are have nose struts built similarly
 
Sounds to me like the steering collar is hitting the centering lock like it's designed to, when the strut is fully extended. If the nose strut is overserviced a bit they tend to do that. Simple fix, let a tiny bit of pressure out of the strut or get used to slamming on the brakes to compress it enough to steer.

A whole lot of Cessna aircraft are have nose struts built similarly
Why would it suddenly be over serviced?
If the nose strut was on the centering block, he wouldn't be able to steer at all.
 
Wow, quick feedback - thanks guys. Okay, the Rudder moves on the ground just as normal. It moves as directed during taxi. There is about 3", maybe less of silver strut showing and turns during tow. When disconnected, the steering tubes appear to function properly. Is there another place where there is a bungee - between the pedals and the rudder? I don't see it in the diagrams...
 
Wow, quick feedback - thanks guys. Okay, the Rudder moves on the ground just as normal. It moves as directed during taxi. There is about 3", maybe less of silver strut showing and turns during tow. When disconnected, the steering tubes appear to function properly. Is there another place where there is a bungee - between the pedals and the rudder? I don't see it in the diagrams...

The steering rods that connect the rudder pedals to the nose gear are a spring loaded cartridge, they are the bungee, and they do break. McFarlane I think has new ones
 
Why would it suddenly be over serviced?
If the nose strut was on the centering block, he wouldn't be able to steer at all.

Piled stuff in the baggage compartment or anything else that would shift CG aft.
 
Have you tried mashing down on the brakes (to lower the nose) when rolling slowly to verify if the steering collar engages or not?
 
Have you tried mashing down on the brakes (to lower the nose) when rolling slowly to verify if the steering collar engages or not?
What steering collar? The 150 doesn't have a device that will allow free castering, it is fully engaged all the time.
 
What steering collar? The 150 doesn't have a device that will allow free castering, it is fully engaged all the time.

Nope, it disengages at full extension to remain pointing straight ahead during flight.
 
Nope, it disengages at full extension to remain pointing straight ahead during flight.
That is done with a block inside the strut, the steering linkage is always attached, steering is accomplished by two spring bungees attached directly to the lower portion of the strut. Strut compression and extension is thru scissors to the fork that holds the tire, There is no disengagement of any linkage.
 
okay, I got 2 new steering rods to replace... I hope that helps, they're not cheap
 
Now we have to figure out out to remove them, it looks like you have to remove the pedals to remove the bolt on the rod end. Arghhh. My mechanic's wife loves me, I feel like I'm paying for their vacations.
 
That is done with a block inside the strut, the steering linkage is always attached, steering is accomplished by two spring bungees attached directly to the lower portion of the strut. Strut compression and extension is thru scissors to the fork that holds the tire, There is no disengagement of any linkage.

No block inside the strut. Stop block on the top torque link will contact the flat surface on the steering housing when strut fully extended. It is all external.
 
Now we have to figure out out to remove them, it looks like you have to remove the pedals to remove the bolt on the rod end. Arghhh. My mechanic's wife loves me, I feel like I'm paying for their vacations.

Or maybe he will charge you a fair price to ensure your safety while flying. Welcome to aircraft ownership!
 
Had to click on the post when i saw 150 steering, just finished installing left and right steering tubes in a '63 model this morning, alot of labor, and while changing the tubes, it is a great time to install the new boots and metal frames around the boots from McFarlane, stuff's spendy, but it'll last a long time, the parts I removed looked like 1963 originals, and the hassle of getting them in and out I can see why they don't get changed often.
Wish you the best on your project
 
And while working around the nose strut, I installed new bushings in the scissors and a new bushing at the shimmy dampener attach, and new rod ends in the steering collar with new lock nuts, makes the nose area look like someone's been taking care of the aircraft
 
No block inside the strut. Stop block on the top torque link will contact the flat surface on the steering housing when strut fully extended. It is all external.
Correct. top visor link has a replaceable block that does the deed. But it is all done in the struts mechanical parts. there is no disconnect linkage that allows the wheel free castor.
 
Replacing those bungees can mess up the rudder system rigging. I very often find Cessna rudder systems badly misrigged. Many mechanics don't have the manuals or don't read them.
 
I used the 150 MM and rigged it just like the book, its not hard, but a guy needs the rudder centered with the rudder pedals centered before pulling the tubes out all the way and adjusting the end to attach to the rod ends on the steering collar
 
Gentlemen, thank you all so much. Your wisdom has guided me toward replacing both steering rods - and it worked. Steers like a brand new airplane. The old rods were weak and one was even bent. I've only owned the airplane a few months and this was one of those things that needed to be fixed. Thanks again. Now, I'm off to upgrade the interior.
 
Gentlemen, thank you all so much. Your wisdom has guided me toward replacing both steering rods - and it worked. Steers like a brand new airplane. The old rods were weak and one was even bent. I've only owned the airplane a few months and this was one of those things that needed to be fixed. Thanks again. Now, I'm off to upgrade the interior.

Glad it worked out for you.
 
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