Owner Spark Plug Replacement

Omalley1537

Omalley1537

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Hello all,
likely a dumb question, but I'm new, so...
I have reviewed FAR part 43 regarding preventative maintainance allowed by owner/pilot. Specifically it indicates that removal/cleaning/replacement is allowed with the normal owner/pilot requirements of other preventative stuff. However, I was wondering if "replacement" means replacing the plugs that were removed, or does it include replacing with new? I would have assumed the latter but some searching led me to a forum in which at least one person said that removal/cleaning/gapping/reinstallation were allowed, but actually replacing the existing plugs with new was not.

Again, amateur league question but I was looking at doing this on my 182 and don't want to run afoul of the regs (afoul...plugs..see what I did there...).

Thanks!
 
I have never seen a aircraft maintenance manual differentiate between reinstallation and replacement. They all have only referenced: Removal and installation, which covers both, replacing and reinstalling.
 
Omalley1537 said:
Hello all,
likely a dumb question, but I'm new, so...
I have reviewed FAR part 43 regarding preventative maintainance allowed by owner/pilot. Specifically it indicates that removal/cleaning/replacement is allowed with the normal owner/pilot requirements of other preventative stuff. However, I was wondering if "replacement" means replacing the plugs that were removed, or does it include replacing with new? I would have assumed the latter but some searching led me to a forum in which at least one person said that removal/cleaning/gapping/reinstallation were allowed, but actually replacing the existing plugs with new was not.

Again, amateur league question but I was looking at doing this on my 182 and don't want to run afoul of the regs (afoul...plugs..see what I did there...).

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Your good either way. the rules do not distinguish between the two.
 
Omalley1537 said:
Hello all,
likely a dumb question, but I'm new, so...
I have reviewed FAR part 43 regarding preventative maintainance allowed by owner/pilot. Specifically it indicates that removal/cleaning/replacement is allowed with the normal owner/pilot requirements of other preventative stuff. However, I was wondering if "replacement" means replacing the plugs that were removed, or does it include replacing with new? I would have assumed the latter but some searching led me to a forum in which at least one person said that removal/cleaning/gapping/reinstallation were allowed, but actually replacing the existing plugs with new was not.

Again, amateur league question but I was looking at doing this on my 182 and don't want to run afoul of the regs (afoul...plugs..see what I did there...).

Thanks!
Click to expand...

That person had his head where the sun don't shine.
 
Omalley1537 said:
Hello all,
likely a dumb question, but I'm new, so...
I have reviewed FAR part 43 regarding preventative maintainance allowed by owner/pilot. Specifically it indicates that removal/cleaning/replacement is allowed with the normal owner/pilot requirements of other preventative stuff. However, I was wondering if "replacement" means replacing the plugs that were removed, or does it include replacing with new? I would have assumed the latter but some searching led me to a forum in which at least one person said that removal/cleaning/gapping/reinstallation were allowed, but actually replacing the existing plugs with new was not.

Again, amateur league question but I was looking at doing this on my 182 and don't want to run afoul of the regs (afoul...plugs..see what I did there...).

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Might not be the latest revision. Hope you are aware of these.

http://www.lycoming.com/Portals/0/t...I 1042Z (05-08-2009)/Approved Spark Plugs.pdf



http://www.csobeech.com/files/TCM-SparkPlugRotation-SIL03-2B.pdf
 
Yep, you can remove them, clean them, and replace them but not with new plugs. The new plugs are already clean so you can't replace them. Plus you didn't remove the new plugs therefore you can't replace with new plugs because they weren't there to begin with. (insert serious looking smiley here)
 
Thanks everyone. I was thinking that replacement was ok but I've also learned that common sense and regulations don't always correlate.

Yes, I even appreciate the smart-a-- answers, part of being a new guy. Plus, if you can't laugh at yourself, you need to lighten up.
 
bnt83 said:
Might not be the latest revision. Hope you are aware of these.

http://www.lycoming.com/Portals/0/techpublications/serviceinstructions/SI 1042Z (05-08-2009)/Approved Spark Plugs.pdf



http://www.csobeech.com/files/TCM-SparkPlugRotation-SIL03-2B.pdf
Click to expand...

Lycoming has a Feb, 2015 Service Instruction 1042AA out that supercedes 1042Z:

http://www.lycoming.com/Portals/0/techpublications\serviceinstructions\SI1042AA_2_17_15.pdf

One thing I noted when I read it last year is the emphasis in item 3 of the Spark Plug Installation Guidelines on pg 2. On questioning, Lycoming told me the Cu-based anti-seize they use at their factory is Loctite C5-A.
 
And how does one know if you replaced with new?
 
From the Lycoming Service bulletin: Spark Plug Installation Guidelines
  1. Spark plug gap must be set at 0.016 to 0.022 in. (0.40 to 0.60 mm).
  2. Always install a spark plug with a new gasket (P/N STD-295).
  3. Use a copper-based anti-seize compound or engine oil on spark plug threads starting two full threads from the electrode, but DO NOT use a graphite-based compound.

Going to go crazy with spark plug info, just attended an IA seminar, Lycoming says in part the above, use copper based anti-seize or oil. I use Tempest plugs and Tempest brand graphite based anti-seize. Talked to the Tempest rep, he says Lycoming is wrong with recommending copper based anti-seize or oil, said they have been trying to correct the Lycoming reps on this (he said oil is about the worst thing you can use). So who knows who is right, personally, I will continue to use the Tempest brand anti-seize with my Tempest plugs.
 
The Champion anti-seize is also graphited. Wonder what data Lyc has to recommend against it.
 
To the OP... Did your mechanic indicate that your plugs were needing to be replaced? If you're just looking for ways to spend money on a new-to-you plane there are probably better items to replace.
 
wsuffa said:
The Champion anti-seize is also graphited. Wonder what data Lyc has to recommend against it.
Click to expand...

I used to use Champion or Tempest anti-seize. I checked with all the shops around to find out what they were doing and most were either unaware of the new SI or didn't know a Cu-based product to replace the graphite stuff we have used "forever". That is why I contacted Lycoming to find out what they were using to comply with their own instruction. Loctite C5-A isn't difficult to find.
 
Decades of graphite, lookit all those crashes and destroyed engines. Just gotta wonder, what is being fixed?
 
Omalley1537 said:
Valid thought, except that in my case the engine has Champion plugs and they will be replaced with Tempest.
Click to expand...

Stewartb said:
To the OP... Did your mechanic indicate that your plugs were needing to be replaced? If you're just looking for ways to spend money on a new-to-you plane there are probably better items to replace.
Click to expand...

Champion makes an inexpensive gauge (PN CT-482) for massive plugs to measure if they need to be replaced. I don't run fine-wire so not sure if there is a gauge available for those as well.

Champion's Service Manual AV6-R is worth a look through as well:
http://www.championaerospace.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/AV6-R-Aug20141.pdf
 
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Let'sgoflying! said:
Decades of graphite, lookit all those crashes and destroyed engines. Just gotta wonder, what is being fixed?
Click to expand...

Agree. But $15 bought me a one pound can that can be handed down through 3 or 4 generations of spark plug changers (provided Lycoming doesn't change their mind again). It just wasn't enough of an issue for me to spend any more time on it. The stuff (Loctite) is stiffer than the Champion or Tempest compounds, and I find it a bit easier to use.

Interesting to note that Loctite C5-A contains some graphite. :eek:
 
Oil? OIL??? Somebody recommends OIL? Oil cokes at that temperature and will sell more helicoils (or replacement cylinders) than you can imagine.

Jim
 
weirdjim said:
Oil? OIL??? Somebody recommends OIL? Oil cokes at that temperature and will sell more helicoils (or replacement cylinders) than you can imagine.

Jim
Click to expand...

Maybe that's their objective :mad:
 
weirdjim said:
Oil? OIL??? Somebody recommends OIL? Oil cokes at that temperature and will sell more helicoils (or replacement cylinders) than you can imagine.

Jim
Click to expand...
Not "somebody recommends", Lycoming!
 
Always with a new gasket, lol. Or just anneal your current copper gaskets as per common method and practice if you are reinstalling a used plug. Make sure you check the resistors with your ohm meter. IMHO, the resistance check catches more faulty plugs (at least legacy champion ones) than any other diagnostic (bomb tester included).

V/r,
 
Always service your plugs yourself - and anything else you are inclined to learn 'how'.
No one cares more than you do.
 
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