The old NOS cracked exhaust stacks are off, and she's ready for the new Knisley slip joint stacks and Colmonoy muffler. Initial bench fit of the new stacks and muffler is perfect!
One question ... do you put any kind of sealant or dope on the slip joint?
The new joint doesn't need any lubricant to slip inside itself. It fits easily.
Almost too easily was why I was wondering if there is going to be any blow-by, hence some kind of special exhaust dope ....
Nope, the inner pipe will run hotter then the outer" slip female" pipe and it will grow larger to seal that joint....
Expansion is a wonderful thing...
Thanks. That eases my mind.
It sure looks better than the old 1/4 inch slip joint with clamps.
It's far from necessary, but I polish the joints, I may even polish the whole pipe.
Put some Silver antiseize on the joint, the next person trying to get it apart won't cuss as much.
Since I have one side up and in place just hand tight, I think I'll forego putting anything on it. But thanks and I understand your suggestion. And I won't be polishing it, I have enough to polish.
If it won't slip out the next time, it isn't too hard to take all the bolts off and drop the whole thing..
A shaved 7/16 socket sure helps. By shaved I mean it's ground down thinner on the nut end than the wrench end.
I still have that socket, I ground down a short 1/4drive swivel socket. That and a 3' extension and exhaust is pretty easy.I have a very similar socket in my airplane toolbox for removing my exhaust.
...........
actually the nickel anti seize jesse pointed out is good to about 1800 degrees f.Once again, Tom is 100% correct..... EGT's run 1350-1450+... That is hotter then the over top burner on your stove....
Do that for 500 -1500 hours till a cylinder needs replacing and I can assure you.. Any product like mouse milk, anti seize or any other stuff know to mankind will be LONG gone.. Can you say "vaporized"...
In fact, some stuff might even carbonize and prevent future removal...
Put some Silver antiseize on the joint, the next person trying to get it apart won't cuss as much.
) We didn't go quite that far with it....
Yes, many different length extensions ....
What I'm finding is starting some of the flange nuts when re-assembling is turning into a beeyach. A couple of them won't start to save my ass. The angle of the dangle just isn't right and you can't get your fingers up in there.
I'm going to try one of those flexible grabber tools today for the hard to start nuts. If I can just get them started, the shaved socket should work ...
It's far from necessary, but I polish the joints, I may even polish the whole pipe.
The flexible grabber tool worked great for starting the nuts.
Another trick I figured out is stuff the deep well shaved socket with paper towels until the nut is settled just about half way down into it.
The stacks are up and torqued save one nut that's giving me a fit. Nothing will fit on it. I think they didn't indent the pipes quite enough right beside it. I'm going to wait until Ron get's back Monday and see if he has a rig for it. It's going to take a really skinny socket. I don't want to try and bend anything and break a stud or punch a hole in my new pipes...
This picture is before I indexed the muffler to fit the cowl hole.
Great looking exhaust...
I LOVE the way they do such a nice job with compound fishmouth joints..
VERY professional...
The flexible grabber tool worked great for starting the nuts.
Another trick I figured out is stuff the deep well shaved socket with paper towels until the nut is settled just about half way down into it.
The stacks are up and torqued save one nut that's giving me a fit. Nothing will fit on it. I think they didn't indent the pipes quite enough right beside it. I'm going to wait until Ron get's back Monday and see if he has a rig for it. It's going to take a really skinny socket. I don't want to try and bend anything and break a stud or punch a hole in my new pipes...
This picture is before I indexed the muffler to fit the cowl hole.
Negative. The muffler cowl has two hoses coming off it, one to cabin heat, and one to a flange just below the oil cooler.
If you look at the picture, both hoses are off, but there is a 3" flange right below the oil cooler just behind the prop. One hose goes there. The other to the firewall heater valve.
You've got hot air being ducted just below the oil cooler all the time.
Whatever....
Here. I put a red circle around it. A 3" heater hose comes off the muffler cover to this flange. And it's open with no obstructions. It ducts hot air from around the muffler to just below the oil cooler.....
WTF?
