Good solution for annoying gas can valves

cowman

cowman

Final Approach
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Cowman
I don't know if you guys mess around with gas cans a lot- I have a lot of small engines around that I have to cart gas to. The gas cans available for purchase for the last several years all have these terrible flow valves on them that break and frequently cause a big mess while trying to hold a heavy 5 gallon can in one hand and release the dumb safety release with the other. They also don't vent so you get the scary experience of gas cans that swell up like they're going to burst in the summer and collapsing in on themselves in the winter.

I had heard this was some brilliant government mandate to avoid gas fumes getting in the air or something. Great idea, I am pretty sure the amount of gas I've spilled with these dumb things has put more fumes in the air than the old ones did but I digress...

Someone finally put the old style simple tube caps back on the market. It even comes with a vent you can install. For your "water jug"
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D8OKRY4/
 
They have the same 'zero venting' in portable outboard tanks now. Holy crap I looked in the tender one hot sunny day I was amazed the bow tank had not exploded. I had to loosed the cap, advantage eliminated.:mad2: 25¢ they could put a charcoal filter on the vent and make it work right.
 
A valve stem with the core removed works well for a vent and you can rip out all the crap in the nozzle with a pair of needle nose.
 
I just drill a hole in the tank as a vent and stick a piece of duct tape over it. Peel back tape when you want it to flow properly.
 
bartmc said:
A valve stem with the core removed works well for a vent and you can rip out all the crap in the nozzle with a pair of needle nose.
Click to expand...

That's a good idea, drill a hole, pop in a valve stem with no core, and screw the cap on.
 
jesse said:
I just drill a hole in the tank as a vent and stick a piece of duct tape over it. Peel back tape when you want it to flow properly.
Click to expand...

Gas fumes degrade tape pretty quickly, liquid even faster. Short haul ok, I just drill a hole and carve a cork bung if I don't have a small wood one handy.
 
bartmc said:
A valve stem with the core removed works well for a vent and you can rip out all the crap in the nozzle with a pair of needle nose.
Click to expand...

I accidentally cleared a nozzle out of one when it got stuck, I pulled on it, and it fired the innards across the garage. The remains eventually cracked and I bought one of these kits as a replacement.

The one I'm replacing now was a different style nozzle where you had to pull back a little safety tab then push down on a valve(one handed holding 30lbs of gas in your other hand high at an awkward angle). The valve just started leaking out of the top while pouring and doesn't close so I'm putting the kit in that one too.

On the diesel can for my tractor I just take the entire cap assembly off since the tank is low enough for me to just pour direct. I sure do wish they'd revisit these silly things though, sounds like everyone is having to modify them to make them work right.
 
Henning said:
Gas fumes degrade tape pretty quickly, liquid even faster. Short haul ok, I just drill a hole and carve a cork bung if I don't have a small wood one handy.
Click to expand...

Yeah it's not a perfect solution but works surprisingly well. I put a few hundred gallons a year through two 5 gallon cans and replace the duct tape about once a year.
 
bartmc said:
A valve stem with the core removed works well for a vent and you can rip out all the crap in the nozzle with a pair of needle nose.
Click to expand...
I found that the rubber degraded within 6 months or so and switched to the EZ Pour spouts.
 
Sometimes you can get good deals on metal military surplus ones, super durable and they pour well.
 
You guys who complain about no-vent gas cans must have never carried many gas cans inside the airplane. The only thing worse than the smell of gas fumes inside the cockpit is the smell of propane inside the cockpit. I fly gasoline and propane tanks occasionally and I've come to appreciate the no-vent cans. For dispensing I usually use a Mr Funnel instead of the nozzle so I don't hate that, either. The no vent thing is about spills, isn't it? I can tip a new gas can to fill a tank and walk away. When it's full it stops filling even if the jerry can has more gas in it. No spills. Pretty handy for some of my needs.
 
I don't use the caps for pouring. I remove the cap and syphon the gas into a Mr. Filter in the wing. I like that they don't spill but do worry when they blow up like beach balls. I plan to cut away all the valve stuff and replace it with a rubber seal.
 
Expansion is not much of a factor for a full can. It's the air inside that expands. Everyone I know squeezes as much air out as possible before sealing any fuel can. Especially before going flying with it in an airplane. If you pre-collapse it a bit there's little chance it'll expand past normal size or try to vent from pressure.
 
bartmc said:
A valve stem with the core removed works well for a vent and you can rip out all the crap in the nozzle with a pair of needle nose.
Click to expand...

Ethanol fuel destroys the valve stem is short order.
 
Stewartb said:
You guys who complain about no-vent gas cans must have never carried many gas cans inside the airplane. The only thing worse than the smell of gas fumes inside the cockpit is the smell of propane inside the cockpit. I fly gasoline and propane tanks occasionally and I've come to appreciate the no-vent cans. For dispensing I usually use a Mr Funnel instead of the nozzle so I don't hate that, either. The no vent thing is about spills, isn't it? I can tip a new gas can to fill a tank and walk away. When it's full it stops filling even if the jerry can has more gas in it. No spills. Pretty handy for some of my needs.
Click to expand...

No, the vent cap was about no spills. The 'No Vent' is a vapor emissions prevention thing that was required to meet a poorly written law about regulating big tanks by people who don't understand what a vent on a gas can does, and why it is unnecessary to vent through the nozzle.:mad2::nonod:
 
Last edited:
N3368K said:
eBay. Cheap. Drill 1/2" hole in can with step drill and insert. I turn cans upside down to drill so drill shavings/spall doesn't fall into can.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Yellow-Ve...9521&clkid=3506655693192662748&_qi=RTM1963929


Jim R
Collierville, TN

N7155H--1946 Piper J-3 Cub
N3368K--1946 Globe GC-1B Swift
N4WJ--1994 Van's RV-4
Click to expand...

For thin plastic if I need a clean hole I'll heat a taper punch with a torch and push it through gently, slowly turning it at the same time.
 
Gas cans aren't as thin as you'd think. Drill works fine and is quick.


Jim R
Collierville, TN

N7155H--1946 Piper J-3 Cub
N3368K--1946 Globe GC-1B Swift
N4WJ--1994 Van's RV-4
 
15.5 Gal beer kegs and a hand pump work well too.
 
A golf tee works as a plug for the vent you drilled in your gas can.
 
I just use a funnel now adays. Take moronic cap/spout off and pour.
 
jesse said:
Yeah it's not a perfect solution but works surprisingly well. I put a few hundred gallons a year through two 5 gallon cans and replace the duct tape about once a year.
Click to expand...

I inherited one with a slot about an inch or so long cut in the top part of the handle away from the nozzle boss. It's my favorite can but I'd rather do the valve stem mod.
 
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